"Scratch Ankle" wrote in message
.. .
I haven't used the scroll saws you mentioned and I have no
familiarity with them. What I use (about a dozen years) is a 2
speed Delta 16" with quick release blade clamps. Get the quick
release feature. When first learning and doing simple shapes, you
won't do many piercing cuts but as you get better and start doing
fret work, you will appreciate the quick release and reclamping. I
paid about $100 for it back then.

I assume you are looking at one that uses plain end blades and not
the pin type. Pin type blades are much bigger and can't do as
tight a turn.

The other thing you will find very helpful is the foot switch. I
use this on a lot of my tools. If something happens, I step back
and it powers down. I had a piece fly off the lathe this morning.
It hit me in the face (face shield) so it didn't much matter but
when I stepped back the lathe stopped. On the scroll saw it beats
having to reach for the switch all the time. If you are doing a
lot of piercing cuts it makes life a lot easier. Also, blades
will break and you can stop the saw quicker by stepping off than
reaching for a switch.

You can use any wood. The exotic stuff is nice but the only place
I've used any of it is on the lathe. For simple shapes like state
outlines, 3/4" pine does the job nicely. But if you get into the
fret work you will often be using thin material and plywood works
best although it does trade off edge appearance. Once you start
cutting out stuff from the piece, it gets fragile. Plywood helps
keep things from breaking so easy. I use a lot of aromatic cedar
to make Christmas ornaments with. They may break if dropped but
it makes nicer ornaments.

Most of the time I use a #5 blade. Some people swear by spiral
blades because they cut in all directions but a #5 leaves a nice
smooth edge that doesn't often need sanding. Spiral blades leave
a rougher edge. I found them harder to control but others say
they are easier. With a #5 blade I can spin a piece around and
reverse directions. Takes a little practice but changing
directions isn't a bit hard. For thicker and harder wood you
might need to go to a bigger blade (#9). I sometimes use a #2 but
usually that's for very fine work or when I'm doing a baby
ornament. I mount a picture of a newborn and make a bell around
it. I then cut the picture around the baby leaving just the baby
outline. A #5 blade leaves the paper cut fuzzy so I use a #2.

Learning is an issue -- I did it by reading Patrick Spielman books
and relying on luck. Better to have someone teach you. I didn't
have that option but you might get the store owner's father-in-law
to give you some instruction. Since we are in a binaries group
I've attached a couple of pictures. The napkin holders are 1/4"
plywood and the ornaments are 1/4" aromatic cedar (from tongue and
groove closet liner).


Thanks very much!!!!
That is just the kind of advice I was seeking.
I appreciate it.
Bob-tx