On Dec 16, 4:58 pm, "Rick" wrote:
"RicodJour" wrote in message

...



On Dec 16, 3:42 pm, Robert Allison wrote:
JoeSpareBedroom wrote:
"Mikepier" wrote in message
...

On Dec 16, 10:22 am, "JoeSpareBedroom" wrote:

"Mikepier" wrote in message

...

OK here is a pic of the molding with a return. Its pic#8 of the album

http://picasaweb.google.com/mikerock92/Molding

If that doesn't get you AT LEAST a batch of cookies, call the Husband
Union
local office immediately.

After almost 40 someodd posts, I think that was the best solution for
the return. It looks pretty good.
On a sidenote, while I was cutting that return piece, the chip shield
on my Makita saw broke.(This after spending $70 for a new 14" blade).
I tried using it without the shield, but its impossible because not
only does the wood fly out into the air, the shield was actually part
of the fence, so you cant get a straight cut. Plus not to mention its
dangerous. The impact left a black and blue on my thumb. Luckiliy my
Bro-in-law has a saw, so I'll borrow his when I go to his house today
and watch the Jets get killed.

Apparently, the power tool industry has managed to convince Lowe's & Home
Despot to stop selling real mitre boxes, except for cheap piece of crap
$13.00 toys from Stanely. But, for molding, a good mitre box is a real
pleasure to use. Slower than a power tool, but extremely precise, and the
cuts are very clean. If you're in the mood to buy yourself a nice gift, this
is it:

http://www.amazon.com/Jorgensen-6401.../dp/B00002244D

Until you need to take a 1/16 off of a 45 degree piece.

In that case you should use a Lion miter trimmer. Dead accurate cuts
because you're doing a rough cut with another tool and using the Lion
to shave off to an exact line.


Or a shooting board...

Righty-O! aka chuting board or chute board and plane. Stanley's #51
and #52:
http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan7.htm

R