John Albert wrote:
Hello all -

I've got an old 2-story house, built in 1911. The outside
has been unchanged for 30 years now, and it needs EVERYthing
done over: roof, windows, siding, all of it. It doesn't have
to be fancy, just functional. I plan to live here 2-3 more
years, and then sell for what I can get (I'm in a
neighborhood that is in a mild state of decline).

With the housing market and economy as it is, functional is the way to
go.


The roof has either 3 or 4 layers of shingles on it already.
That all has to come off - back down to the original
sheathing - and start over.

The original roof was probably wood shingles, so expect to go down to
the rafters and put on new sheathing. You may get lucky and find
tongue and groove sheathing already there, and not the open spaced
battens that shingles are usually applied on. A good roof is a vital
item in a house

Lots of loose shingles on the sidewalls, so I will probably
have to have the existing siding (old wood shingles or
something else they were using back in 1911) stripped off,
too, back down to the sheathing, and built back up.

Whoa, lad, didn't you just say you wanted functional, declining
neighborhood and all? Best bet for your 2-3 year residency is to hire
a good carpenter to do over the old shingle siding. A fresh coat of
stain and you've put that one behind you.

Not sure what to do about the windows. I don't care for
vinyl "replacement" windows, I'd prefer either full
replacements (real wood with aluminum cladding on the
outside), or something similar.

Unless the windows are falling apart, just repair and caulk, whatever.
Keep telling yourself, 'I won't be here in 3 years'.

I've been checking out something the Marvin windows company
offers called "Tilt Pac". Not a replacement "insert", this
is a double-hung replacement kit that replaces your old
sashes with new wood/thermal glass, and has jamb liners that
once installed, allow the new sashes to tilt inward.

The end result is a "reconstructed" traditional window that
uses the old casings.
I was wondering if anyone out there has tried these, and can
offer opinions on them.
They aren't cheap. They cost about the same as Marvin's
"Integrity" double-hung FULL window assemblies. The sales
guy said there might be extra installation cost involved
with full windows due to trim removal/reinstallation on the
outside, however.

Keep windows on the back burner. What is the condition of the
important utilities, plumbing, electrical, furnace, AC?

Some questions:

- When doing a complete exterior remodel, would it be best
to start "from the top down" (the roof first)? I'd kind of
like to take this in steps so I go broke a little at a time,
not all at once.

Yes, do the roof. It will cost many times more than you think it will
since logically you will need gutters and downspouts in most places.

- With the roof done, should the windows be taken care of
_before_ the siding is removed/replaced? I'm thinking by
doing windows first (especially if it is going to involve
complete replacements that require trim work on the
outside), the siding job will go more smoothly as the last step.

See comments above. Don't get in over your head, the roof alone may be
over $10K.

Speaking of siding, I don't care for cheap vinyl "strip
siding". I've seen some newer-design products by Certainteed
and Nailite that use a heavier plastic (polypropylene) with
molded designs that mimic individually-installed shingles
(and do a very good job at it, too). Anyone tried this
stuff?

Your preferences on building materials won't resonate at all with the
future owner. Concentrate on having a respectable curb appeal not
upscale features that don't blend in with the neighborhood. Good luck
on your project.

Joe