DIYbanter - View Single Post - mounting a boiler onto a Breeze block wall

The Natural Philosopher

wrote:
On Nov 30, 7:17 pm, Lobster wrote:
wrote:
On Nov 30, 4:53 pm, Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-11-30 16:25:58 +0000, said:
How safe is it to fix a boiler of about 45Kg to a breeze block wall?
The wall at the moment is bare...no rendering, but I've planned to use
celotex insulation and plasterboard...I guess I'll have to use a
proper studding frame behind the boiler and then look for longer
screws (or these polyester fixings) to account for the thickness of
the studs.
How are fixing all the celotex/plasterboard - just fixing direct to the
wall, or are you putting up studwork throughout? That's what I did
recently; I got a fixing template from my boiler manufacturer while
erecting it, so I could work out exactly where to position horizontal
noggins so that they would be in the right place to attach the boiler to
them. Measured and recorded the noggin height off the floor, then
celotexed, and boarded the whole wall and got it skimmed.

Then when the boiler installer came along, he found two parallel lines
drawn on the plaster along which he could screw the boiler frame. So
the boiler is supported on the studwork, not the wall behind.

David

Well, the way the drywall is going to be fixed is another issue which
needs to be sorted.
Your suggestion is to fix the studs to the wall, apply the celotex
between the studs, cover with plasterboard and skim.
The boiler should be fixed onto the studwork (bearing in mind of the
positioning of the screws.

Put that ply plate in..to make it easy..

Yet, ultimately, the loads are transmitted to the wall...or the studs
rest on the floor?

I'd rest them on the floor: then the studs merely have to be attached to
not pull away from the wall.

I guess I need to do some homework....
It semms ok though, the impact load to the aerated blocks is softened
by the studs.
The studs can be spread on a large surface of the wall = the load is
also distribuited on a larger area.

You get the basic idea..you meed a horizontal beam bit at the floor base
to rest the studs ON and provide something to nail the skirting
to..thats your weight support member..

The only problem with studs is that the celotex isn't going to be
continous along the wall surface.

No big deal.

I was thinking of using aluminium studs...but these don't look very
sturdy.
Maybe I should use wooden studs in critical areas and aluminium ones
in other.

Al goes up fast, but its a hellofa cold bridge and expesnive.

Just get some 2x2 rough sawn or so and make up a floor beam and a
ceiling beam. and whack up studs between them using angled nails - one
from each side.

Add noggins and a ply plate inset into the studs for the boiler.

Fill between with celotex of 50mm and foil tape over the ruddy lot.
board up and skim.

This at present is all guesswork.

That wasn't. Its more or less how my house is built, except I haven't
got the blocks,. so we used 4x2, 6x3 and 7x3 timbers for the walls, and
in some critical areas, a ply facing nailed over for extra strength,
before plasterboarding...