RicodJour wrote:
On Oct 17, 11:30 am, dpb wrote:
RicodJour wrote:
On Oct 17, 9:46 am, (Chris Lewis) wrote:
According to dpb :
Chris Lewis wrote:
A guy who works here, and previously spent a few years installing
this stuff professionally, swore by using a 1/4" crown stapler
shooting 1" staples. The legs spread enough to hold things in
place.
Maybe until he leaves...
He was the one who suggested construction adhesive - the staples are only
to keep the stuff in position for a few hours.
I wouldn't trust it myself and the staples are an abomination in
themselves imo. If I were making my living that way, however, I'm sure
my choice of techniques would change to accommodate...
Probably, I know mine would ;-)
I'm not fond of staples either - I can't _stand_ furniture made with them -
they always fall apart if they're the only fastening system used.
But there are applications where they're probably the best option. This
(wainscotting over drywall with glue) is one of them.
I'm curious. What exactly is the benefit of pulling the existing tile
and drywall? The new beadboard is 3/16" of an inch thick, so adding
the thickness is a non-issue. We've agreed that construction adhesive
would adhere the stuff to the tile/grout. Pulling the tile and
drywall and replacing it with drywall or plywood costs money, entails
dump fees of a _very_ accommodating garbage man, takes time, creates a
boat load of dust, will shut down the area for at least a day or two,
etc. Gluing the stuff up takes probably less than a quarter of the
time, doesn't create appreciable dust if the guy cuts the beadboard
and trim outside, and would cost the price of the glue (beadboard and
trim being a given). So why not glue it up?
First, who said it was only 3/16" thick?

The OP in his second post in this thread.

If it is that thin stuff, could get by. Depending on the thickness of
the tile and the trim it just might still be less than flush at the ends
with the door casings if they're a full thickness and not look _too_
tacky. Does the tile go behind or is it stopped at the top of the
baseboard heaters? I'd have to see a piece in place or at least a
picture to decide if I could live with it for my own...others may not be
so picky.

If I were planning on being in the house for only a couple of years,
I'd have to have a better reason to pull the tile and drywall than
there'd be a little trim near openings. Besides, who said the tile is
perfectly flush with the trim around the existing openings? You could
get away with chamfering or radiusing the exposed edge - it would be
self-trimming beadboard. If the beadboard ends sit flush on the
baseboard, nobody, including the manufacturer, would notice the
baseboards appreared 3/16" of an inch less deep. There's no need for
trim there either. All that's needed is a chair rail to cover the top
edge.

I don't recall seeing that, but I stuck in my $0.02 initially after the
first and really only commented after that on my original idea/suggestions.

I've known many plans of leaving a place "in a year or two" to fall by
the wayside -- I moved to TN w/ every intention of only being there
about that long -- 25 years later, I _did_ finally get back to the farm,
but certainly never expected that to be what was in my future initially.
Add to that the current uncertainty in housing markets, depending on
where OP is, things may or may not have recovered by then enough to make
it feasible and if it were to be a tight market, anything that looked
the least bit tacky might be a hindrance.

I'm one who figures if I'm going to do it, I might as well do it the
best I know how at the time as I don't know what will be happening in
the future. As noted, others may have a different perspective; they're
welcome to them. (And, it's not how I make a living, so a little extra
time isn't that major of a concern--if there were a _real_ time
constraint, I could perhaps be persuaded to take a shortcut.)

Again, all is of course, $0.02, etc., etc., etc., ...

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