Chris Lewis wrote:
According to dpb :
Chris Lewis wrote:

You're exceedingly unlikely to get the tile off the drywall without
considerable damage. It'll take vastly longer if you try to save
the drywall. You can probably rip the drywall/tile off in less than
an hour, and it won't take much longer than that to put up new
drywall, because behind the wainscotting you don't have to "finish mud"
it. (you still should tape and first pass the joints).

I really don't see any need for even the first tape job, meself...
I'd probably do it if it were mine, but I really don't see a problem
without.

I'm thinking air infiltration - depending on what's behind it.

What I would note that I forgot to mention is that the other reason to
take the sheetrock down is that unless you use the plywood (or Rico's
imo hack), you need a nailer between the joists. Top and bottom is
adequate, but I prefer a mid-height one as well...can be 1x or 2x, your
choice.

That's what the PL200 is for. What I've also done is shoot two
brads at an opposing angle if I think it might move before the PL200
sets. So, it becomes: quick zig-zag of PL200, put plank in place,
shoot brad thru the floor plate, and shoot nail (occasionally two
criss-cross brads) at the top where the cap molding will cover it.

Even more rarely, I'll shoot two criss-cross brads mid-height.

It helps to have straight walls of course. If there's significant
bowing, then it becomes rather more important to have solid backing.

A guy who works here, and previously spent a few years installing
this stuff professionally, swore by using a 1/4" crown stapler
shooting 1" staples. The legs spread enough to hold things in
place.

Maybe until he leaves...

I wouldn't trust it myself and the staples are an abomination in
themselves imo. If I were making my living that way, however, I'm sure
my choice of techniques would change to accommodate...

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