On Oct 16, 12:20 pm, grodenhiATgmailDOTcom wrote:

The wainscoting I was planning on installing is the bead board type
(at Lowes they sell 3/16" white beadboard). So it looks like my best
bet is to remove the tiles and either replace the drywall (if damaged)
or nail this over where tile used to be. I really hope to not have to
replace the wall board as the walls I want to do have baseboard
heating and I don't want to have to remove that to. I was really
hoping for something along the lines of a weekend project.

You can install beadboard over tile. If you're looking for down and
dirty, big bang for your time buck and the like, then just glue it up
and trim out the edges. Purists (including me) usually will tell you
to remove the old material, but if it's just a cosmetic thing, just
cover it. My first choice in adhesive would be a one-part
polyurethane or construction adhesive. The tile should be cleaned and
degreased before you do any gluing. Lay the glue beads down on the
grout lines as it will stick better to the grout than to the tile.
Have all of your pieces lined up and rig up something to apply
pressure to the beadboard strips while the glue sets up. You could
drill and nail through the grout lines, but that's more trouble than
it's worth. You could also use a contact cement on the tile and
beadboard along with the polyurethane. The contact cement might be
enough for itself, but never having contact cemented anything to tile,
I can't vouch for it. The contact cement would hold the beadboard in
place while the polyurethane set up - you wouldn't need to nail or
brace it. The contact cement would require you to install each piece,
except the first, with a rolling motion as you engage the T&G. The
contact cement won't let the board slide so it's first shot right or
you're pulling the piece off and possibly damaging it.

The baseboard also does not have to come out. You can loosen it and
slide the boards down behind it - there should be enough slack in the
wiring. Even downer and dirtier would be to have the beadboard sit on
top of the radiator convector and either do a good job of lining up
the ends and leaving it alone, caulking the gap, or using a piece of
molding to cover the gap. Be aware than the heat from the convector
will do interesting things to the beadboard. The heat and dryness
will create a large amount of seasonal change in dimensions. The T&G
joints will open up more than usual.

R