On Wed, 10 Oct 2007 13:19:42 -0700, Kevin wrote:

Prior to my shelling out $$ for buffing equipment I would ask a couple
questions.
Let's assume I have turned my bowl and sanded to around 220 or so. I
then apply some Watco Danish oil, or BLO. I sand more to around 500
grit. After sanding to 500 would be the point to start the buffing,
yes? After buffing I could then apply shellac if that was my
preference, yes?

Kevin.. My 2 cents after buffing a few hundred pens and bowls:

I usually sand bowls to 600, 800 if I think it requires it, then buff and it's
done...

I never use D. oil until it's finished sanded UNLESS I'm wet sanding with it,
which I do a lot with non-oily woods..

IMHO, I would never oil AFTER buffing because:

As George said, you buff a finish, not finish a buffed piece..

Unless you skipped the (3rd) wax wheel, oil wouldn't stick to it, would it?
I would hope that melted and buffed carnauba wax would be semi-water and oil
proof..

I have SO much stain and stuff that I save for flat work now... I have maybe
$200 invested in the buffing system and 3 sizes of bowl buffs and I've saved a
lot more than that in the stains, top coats, etc. that I haven't used for a
couple of years...
I like my work so much better with that "glowing" sheen... and it's so much
faster and easier than other finishes... Instant gratification..

Also, it's nice to tell clients that the finish is natural and the wax is an
ingredient in chewing gum and lots of other food stuff..

I find that with most hardwoods, I can go right from sanding to buffing, without
oil or anything..

NOTE: Don't EVER oil paduak and buff it, it is oily enough without it and turns
your wheels orange.. DAMHIKT




mac

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