Thread: Lathe advice
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DoN. Nichols DoN. Nichols is offline
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Default Lathe advice

According to Bill Schwab :
Wes,


[ ... ]

It is prewired to 220, but can apparently be wired for 110. There are
no 220 outlets where I envision this living for the near future. Any
strong thoughts on whether I should fix that or is 110 ok?


That is going to keep you in the 1.5HP range. Since you like small stuff
that might not be much of an issue.


Ok. I coud always switch the wiring back to 220, right??? Sorry, but I
gotta ask.


Yes -- and hopefully the manual will tell you how to make the
changes -- as long as you have the original motor. With a different
motor, you may need to work it out between the manual for the lathe and
the manual for the motor.

Note, BTW, that while they say that it has a reversing switch,
with a single phase motor (e.g. 120 VAC or 240 VAC wiring on the motor
which they offer) you have to wait for the spindle to slow down almost
to a stop before switching it for the other direction. If you move the
switch quickly, the motor will keep running in the original direction,
because at speed the start winding (which is what determines the
direction) is disengaged by the centrifugal switch in the motor.

You can get instant reversing only with a three phase motor, and
if you are worried about getting 240 VAC for the lathe, you certainly
don't have three phase available. There are ways to work around it, but
we can cover those later if you opt to go to a three-phase motor.

[ ... ]

Make sure the ways are hardened.


Aha -- a good point which I forgot to mention.

Does it have a taper attachment, steady
and follow rest?


Here is the (page 410) catalog page:

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?P...PARTPG=INLMK32

Comments are most welcome.


Hmmm ... hardened bed ways. Good.

Spindle bore is big enough so you should be able to use 5C
collets with the right adaptor.

2-1/4x8 threaded spindle -- a D-? Camlock spindle nose would be
a better choice.

Steady rest and follower rest are both included -- good.

Pitch the 4-way toolpost and put on a quick-change wedge style
toolpost -- Ideally Aloris BXA series, but if your money is getting
tight, go for the Phase-II 200 series.

Metric change gears -- but you will find metric threading a
serious pain.

Cross-slide travel is a little over 1/2 the maximum size, which
should be fine, as it will reach from the OD to the center, which is as
far as you need to go.

Tailstock taper is only 2MT, while 3MT is a better fit for a 12"
lathe.

50 RPM -- a bit lower than my Clausing, so you have a chance
with threading coarse threads. Practice timing a few times first away
from the workpiece and chuck.

1-1/2 HP motor -- you will want to get 240 VAC wiring in your
shop.

You may want to get the upgrade to the Baldor motor -- I've
heard bad stories about the default motors. Are you getting the one
with the floor cabinet, or the bench lathe? Apparently the upgrade for
the motor is only available for the bench lathe (perhaps problems
fitting the Baldor in the pedestal).

No clue as to what the dial markings are.

And I would be interested to see what threads it will cut.
They only give the coarsest and finest, plus a count. One thread which
I am glad that my Clausing has but which many other machines do not have
is 27 TPI (used for microphone mount threads and for electrical lamp
fixture threads).

If it does metric / inch threading one unit of measurement
only works if you never unlock the half nuts.


Are you saying that the machine can be configured for one or the other,
but not both?


The longitudinal leadscrew is either an imperial thread or a
metric thread. With the transposing gears (which they say are included)
you can *cut* the opposite (I gather that this is imperial by default,
and metric through the change gears), but you have to keep the half-nuts
engaged from the start to the finish, and reverse the spindle (with the
cutting tool backed away from the workpiece) to back up for the next
pass. With the native thread series, you can open the half-nuts and
quickly crank the carriage back to the start, and then observe the
threading dial and close the half nuts at the right time -- a much
simpler task.

Good luck,
DoN.

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