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BobK207 BobK207 is offline
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Default Can a rookie hope to be successful at......

On Sep 28, 10:41 am, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 28 Sep 2007 04:20:28 -0000, BobK207
wrote:

Oren -


Why?


No brad nailer, whatsoever!


I have used this technique with good success. My Porter Cable BN250
shoots 2.5" 16 gage "brads".
A couple of shots in opposite directions, angled in like toe nailing
will lock up that subfloor just fine.
(if he can hit the joists)


cheers
Bob


I see your point. I would have concerns that the brads would pull
loose and not be as secure as a screw or nail. Given the flex and
movement of the subfloor...imo.

--
Oren

"I don't have anything against work. I just figure, why deprive somebody who really loves it."


Oren-

I totally agree with your concern about brads in general not have much
resistance to withdrawal.....screws are much better.

But having been in situations were I had to use a brad nailer, I
learned that if you get the two pieces that you are fastening butted
together & then shoot a couple of brads at opposing angles you can get
a very tight connection. Shot a decent angle the brads work aginast
each other in shear rather than withdrawal alone.

Besides brads go in so easy! Bang, bang, bang; you're done

If you have a 15 or 16 gage brad nailer you can do an easy test by
"toenailing" a piece to plywood to a 2x on edge......use straight
shots on one sample & the opposing angle technique on another. Then
try to pry the assemblies apart. The straight shots will come apart
rather easily, the angle shot much harder.

In the OP's squeaking floor situation he only need to resist ~100 lbs
or so. Four brads (2 in each direction) should do the trick. He
should, however, force the subfloor while shooting the brads.

Long winded post, brads can be made to work but screws are better. If
its just plywood subfloor & not a hardwood floor I'd use
screws...hardwood, I'd give the brads a shot .

cheers
Bob