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Default Can a rookie hope to be successful at......

Can a rookie hope to be successful at pulling up the carpet in a few
places in the upstairs of our house, screwing the subfloor to the
joists to hopefully eliminate some nagging squeaks, and then putting
the carpet back using a carpet stretcher (having never used one, hope
to rent one) and make it look as good as it does now? Some of these
squeaks are just driving me to distraction and I need to fix them. I
addressed most of the squeaks on the main floor by going to the
basement and putting shims between the subfloor and the joist in the
offending area. I know there is a product for eliminating squeaks
under carpeted floors, special screws that you can drill in and then
snap the head off, but I worry about damaging the berber carpet.

Thanks for any guidance/advice.

Mike

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On Sep 27, 2:52 pm, Mike wrote:
Can a rookie hope to be successful at pulling up the carpet in a few
places in the upstairs of our house, screwing the subfloor to the
joists to hopefully eliminate some nagging squeaks, and then putting
the carpet back using a carpet stretcher (having never used one, hope
to rent one) and make it look as good as it does now? Some of these
squeaks are just driving me to distraction and I need to fix them. I
addressed most of the squeaks on the main floor by going to the
basement and putting shims between the subfloor and the joist in the
offending area. I know there is a product for eliminating squeaks
under carpeted floors, special screws that you can drill in and then
snap the head off, but I worry about damaging the berber carpet.

Thanks for any guidance/advice.

Mike


Nope.

JK

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On Thu, 27 Sep 2007 12:52:25 -0700, Mike wrote:

Can a rookie hope to be successful at pulling up the carpet in a few
places in the upstairs of our house, screwing the subfloor to the
joists to hopefully eliminate some nagging squeaks, and then putting
the carpet back using a carpet stretcher (having never used one, hope
to rent one) and make it look as good as it does now? Some of these
squeaks are just driving me to distraction and I need to fix them. I
addressed most of the squeaks on the main floor by going to the
basement and putting shims between the subfloor and the joist in the
offending area. I know there is a product for eliminating squeaks
under carpeted floors, special screws that you can drill in and then
snap the head off, but I worry about damaging the berber carpet.

Thanks for any guidance/advice.

Mike


I'm not a doctor about you're success; but yes you can do this.

An easy try is to sink one screw where needed - Do Not catch this
screw on the carper pile or you will have torn carpet.

Leave the head on the screw, snug to the jute sp. Allow the carpet
to cover the screw head and "jewt"

--
Oren

"I don't have anything against work. I just figure, why deprive somebody who really loves it."
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Default Can a rookie hope to be successful at......

On Sep 27, 12:52 pm, Mike wrote:
Can a rookie hope to be successful at pulling up the carpet in a few
places in the upstairs of our house, screwing the subfloor to the
joists to hopefully eliminate some nagging squeaks, and then putting
the carpet back using a carpet stretcher (having never used one, hope
to rent one) and make it look as good as it does now? Some of these
squeaks are just driving me to distraction and I need to fix them. I
addressed most of the squeaks on the main floor by going to the
basement and putting shims between the subfloor and the joist in the
offending area. I know there is a product for eliminating squeaks
under carpeted floors, special screws that you can drill in and then
snap the head off, but I worry about damaging the berber carpet.

Thanks for any guidance/advice.

Mike


Mike-

What's under the carpet? If its just plywood subfloor, I'd try my
16 gage brad nailer thru the carpet.
Crank up the pressure, get the nailer shoe down thru the pile & shoot
at an angle.

If its hardwood floor under the carpet, consider the possibility that
sometime in the future you might be ripping up that carpet & going
back to a nice hardwood floor. Would you rather have a few small
brad holes or big screw holes?

JMHO but I wouldn't ruin a hardwood floor by doing a cheap & dirty
fix.

In order for any fix to work you've got to get the fasteners into the
floor joists.

Ask around, maybe you can find a carpet guy who will reset your carpet
on the way home from work. Do it at his convenience and you'll
probably get it done for a reasonable cost.


cheers
Bob


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Default Can a rookie hope to be successful at......

On Sep 27, 6:53 pm, BobK207 wrote:

Mike-

What's under the carpet? If its just plywood subfloor, I'd try my
16 gage brad nailer thru the carpet.
Crank up the pressure, get the nailer shoe down thru the pile & shoot
at an angle.

If its hardwood floor under the carpet, consider the possibility that
sometime in the future you might be ripping up that carpet & going
back to a nice hardwood floor. Would you rather have a few small
brad holes or big screw holes?

JMHO but I wouldn't ruin a hardwood floor by doing a cheap & dirty
fix.

In order for any fix to work you've got to get the fasteners into the
floor joists.

Ask around, maybe you can find a carpet guy who will reset your carpet
on the way home from work. Do it at his convenience and you'll
probably get it done for a reasonable cost.

cheers
Bob


Thanks for the info, Bob. There is plywood under the carpet, so I
have no concern using screws, though I'll consider a brad nailer like
you suggested. I'm leaning toward screws though, so I won't have to
worry about them eventually pulling out and squeaking again. There is
one bad spot near my wife's side of the bed and she will NOT try to
step around it. Grrrrrrr.

Mike



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On Thu, 27 Sep 2007 22:57:44 -0000, Mike wrote:

Thanks for the info, Bob. There is plywood under the carpet, so I
have no concern using screws, though I'll consider a brad nailer like
you suggested. I'm leaning toward screws though, so I won't have to
worry about them eventually pulling out and squeaking again. There is
one bad spot near my wife's side of the bed and she will NOT try to
step around it. Grrrrrrr.

Mike


The first screw goes into the floor :-))

Start there!

As to the carpet and the squeaks; and I forgot to mention, cut a small
(tiny) "X" in the carpet (bottom) to allow a screw past the carpet.
Screw down the plywood...

No brad nailer, whatsoever!
--
Oren

"I don't have anything against work. I just figure, why deprive somebody who really loves it."
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"Oren" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 27 Sep 2007 22:57:44 -0000, Mike wrote:

Thanks for the info, Bob. There is plywood under the carpet, so I
have no concern using screws, though I'll consider a brad nailer like
you suggested. I'm leaning toward screws though, so I won't have to
worry about them eventually pulling out and squeaking again. There is
one bad spot near my wife's side of the bed and she will NOT try to
step around it. Grrrrrrr.

Mike


The first screw goes into the floor :-))

Start there!

As to the carpet and the squeaks; and I forgot to mention, cut a small
(tiny) "X" in the carpet (bottom) to allow a screw past the carpet.
Screw down the plywood...

No brad nailer, whatsoever!

Nobody else said it, so I will- 'Ask this old house', a year or so back,
demonstrated break-away screws and a drilling jig designed for this exact
purpose. Didn't look like it would be absurdly expensive. Uses a standard
drill with a driver bit- the jig holds the screw square to the floor, and
the screw breaks off flush below carpet backer level when the threaded part
bottoms out. They claim it is bare-feet safe. Can't remember the company
name, but their web site probably has it- search on 'squeeky floors' or
something.

aem sends...


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"aemeijers" wrote in message
Nobody else said it, so I will- 'Ask this old house', a year or so back,
demonstrated break-away screws and a drilling jig designed for this exact
purpose. Didn't look like it would be absurdly expensive. Uses a standard
drill with a driver bit- the jig holds the screw square to the floor, and
the screw breaks off flush below carpet backer level when the threaded
part bottoms out. They claim it is bare-feet safe. Can't remember the
company name, but their web site probably has it- search on 'squeeky
floors' or something.


I've seen it on the TV show and they do have the information on their web
page. Simple enough of an operation that anyone with a drill can do.

http://search.thisoldhouse.com/TOHSe...=et%3Avideo%3B


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On Sep 27, 5:22 pm, Oren wrote:
On Thu, 27 Sep 2007 22:57:44 -0000, Mike wrote:
Thanks for the info, Bob. There is plywood under the carpet, so I
have no concern using screws, though I'll consider a brad nailer like
you suggested. I'm leaning toward screws though, so I won't have to
worry about them eventually pulling out and squeaking again. There is
one bad spot near my wife's side of the bed and she will NOT try to
step around it. Grrrrrrr.


Mike


The first screw goes into the floor :-))

Start there!

As to the carpet and the squeaks; and I forgot to mention, cut a small
(tiny) "X" in the carpet (bottom) to allow a screw past the carpet.
Screw down the plywood...

No brad nailer, whatsoever!
--
Oren

"I don't have anything against work. I just figure, why deprive somebody who really loves it."




Oren -

Why?

No brad nailer, whatsoever!


I have used this technique with good success. My Porter Cable BN250
shoots 2.5" 16 gage "brads".
A couple of shots in opposite directions, angled in like toe nailing
will lock up that subfloor just fine.
(if he can hit the joists)

cheers
Bob
--

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On Thu, 27 Sep 2007 22:57:44 -0000, Mike wrote:


Thanks for the info, Bob. There is plywood under the carpet, so I
have no concern using screws, though I'll consider a brad nailer like
you suggested. I'm leaning toward screws though, so I won't have to
worry about them eventually pulling out and squeaking again. There is


A generally good technique, probably good whenever one is nailing
something he doesn't plan to take apart, is to put the nails in at an
angle, and near to each other at opposite angles. I've never done a
floor, but using a floor as a possible example, while the floor, when
people walked on it, would go down and up and on one nail, pushing the
nail head up, the second nail would be at an angle to that travel and
would keep the floor from moving.

It won't be able to move on the second nail, because the first will
prevent it.

one bad spot near my wife's side of the bed and she will NOT try to
step around it. Grrrrrrr.

Mike




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Default Can a rookie hope to be successful at......

On Fri, 28 Sep 2007 04:20:28 -0000, BobK207
wrote:

Oren -

Why?

No brad nailer, whatsoever!


I have used this technique with good success. My Porter Cable BN250
shoots 2.5" 16 gage "brads".
A couple of shots in opposite directions, angled in like toe nailing
will lock up that subfloor just fine.
(if he can hit the joists)

cheers
Bob


I see your point. I would have concerns that the brads would pull
loose and not be as secure as a screw or nail. Given the flex and
movement of the subfloor...imo.

--
Oren

"I don't have anything against work. I just figure, why deprive somebody who really loves it."
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Default Can a rookie hope to be successful at......

Mike wrote:
Can a rookie hope to be successful at pulling up the carpet in a few
places in the upstairs of our house, screwing the subfloor to the
joists to hopefully eliminate some nagging squeaks, and then putting
the carpet back using a carpet stretcher (having never used one, hope
to rent one) and make it look as good as it does now? Some of these
squeaks are just driving me to distraction and I need to fix them. I
addressed most of the squeaks on the main floor by going to the
basement and putting shims between the subfloor and the joist in the
offending area. I know there is a product for eliminating squeaks
under carpeted floors, special screws that you can drill in and then
snap the head off, but I worry about damaging the berber carpet.

Thanks for any guidance/advice.

Mike

I have this vague memory of seeing an "Ask This Old House" segment
within the last year - 18 months where they dealth with this issue.
Long and short, there is a screw system which goes in with a standard
power screw driver that has a snap off head that goees right through the
carpet and plywood subfloor into the floor joists. Screw gets ssnapped
off level with the top of the plywood floor, never shows through the pa
or carpet.

Probably won't work on hardwood floors.

You may want to google for the ATOH web site and search that site for
the segment.
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On Sep 28, 10:41 am, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 28 Sep 2007 04:20:28 -0000, BobK207
wrote:

Oren -


Why?


No brad nailer, whatsoever!


I have used this technique with good success. My Porter Cable BN250
shoots 2.5" 16 gage "brads".
A couple of shots in opposite directions, angled in like toe nailing
will lock up that subfloor just fine.
(if he can hit the joists)


cheers
Bob


I see your point. I would have concerns that the brads would pull
loose and not be as secure as a screw or nail. Given the flex and
movement of the subfloor...imo.

--
Oren

"I don't have anything against work. I just figure, why deprive somebody who really loves it."


Oren-

I totally agree with your concern about brads in general not have much
resistance to withdrawal.....screws are much better.

But having been in situations were I had to use a brad nailer, I
learned that if you get the two pieces that you are fastening butted
together & then shoot a couple of brads at opposing angles you can get
a very tight connection. Shot a decent angle the brads work aginast
each other in shear rather than withdrawal alone.

Besides brads go in so easy! Bang, bang, bang; you're done

If you have a 15 or 16 gage brad nailer you can do an easy test by
"toenailing" a piece to plywood to a 2x on edge......use straight
shots on one sample & the opposing angle technique on another. Then
try to pry the assemblies apart. The straight shots will come apart
rather easily, the angle shot much harder.

In the OP's squeaking floor situation he only need to resist ~100 lbs
or so. Four brads (2 in each direction) should do the trick. He
should, however, force the subfloor while shooting the brads.

Long winded post, brads can be made to work but screws are better. If
its just plywood subfloor & not a hardwood floor I'd use
screws...hardwood, I'd give the brads a shot .

cheers
Bob

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