Chris Friesen wrote:
wrote:
Splitting circuits is nice if you want lots of switched receptacles,
but it should be borne in mind that using 14/3, and running from
outlet to outlet, the boxes will need to be 20 cu in.
You sure? By my count that would be six wires and four caps, which
under local code would require a 15 cu in box.
Chris
CF:
Hmm...lemme check my work.
One 14/3 in - 3 allowances
One 14/3 out - 3 allowances
All grounds in box - 1 allowance
One device - 2 allowances
Internal cable clamps - 1 allowance
Total 10 x 2.00 cu in for 14 AWG = 20 cu in.
Or 18 if using something without internal
clamps, like nonmetallic single gang
new-work boxes. I tend to use 3 1/2"
deep metal boxes on old work, with
internal clamps, though if I have a really
DEEP wall (such as a baseboard outlet
over lath&plaster over /internal/ board
sheathing over full 2 x 4 studs) I may use
external clamps threaded into the box back.
I find external clamps to be otherwise
unwieldy in old work, and plastic boxes to
do a poorer job than metal at clamping
to lath & plaster, so I tend to favor schemes
that keep the volume = 18. On new work,
I tend to use Carlon Superblue deep boxes,
with 22 cu in, which allow the split receptacles
with either 14/3 or 12/3.
Now that I think of it, the lower volume needed
for a split circuit using 14/3 /does/ provide a
good argument for that wire size in general
lighting. I can't say the fatigue issue bothers
me a whole lot. People who nick their wire
are probably screwing up a lot of other things
as well; bad nicks seem to go with multiple
wires on 1 screw, backwards loops, and
cheesy drugstore wirenuts screwed on too
loosely. I also haven't seen as many cases
of too much wire stuffed in as too little, and
the wonderful practice of pulling in the cable
tight, cutting it off 4" past the KO, stripping
2" of jacket, and pushing it back as the
receptacle goes home,with no clamp, of
course. Ugh.
G P