On Sep 23, 9:22 am, John Ross wrote:
This is what I was getting at. Should the connection to the water pipe
be moved to within 5 feet of the entrance of the house (to be closer
to that 10 foot of pipe you refer to).And also does it matter if the
old connection is left (i.e. 2 places it is bonded at)?

The purpose of a green safety ground wire is to connect fault
electricity to the ground bus bar inside breaker box. Electric faults
must connect back to breaker box to trip a circuit breaker - for human
safety.

Pipes must never be a carrier of electricity - an attitude change
from many decades ago. That cold water pipe ground clamp is to remove
electricity from water pipes; not to dump electricity into water
pipes. Its primary function is human safety.

Your earth ground is those rod electrodes that are nearby the
breaker box and dedicated only for earthing. BTW, those rods should
be separated eight feet or more (not six feet). They bond the breaker
box, short, to earth ground.

That safety ground wire to water pipe must be less than 5 feet from
where pipe enters the building. This for numerous reasons including to
pickup any stray currents that might enter from outside via city
water.

Some jurisdictions also want a steel bathtub bonded by a dedicated 6
AWG ground wire to breaker box safety ground. Again, a connection for
same reason - to remove electricity from plumbing. Plumbing must not
carry electricity.

General concepts for safety grounding are summarized by volts500 in
alt.home.repair entitled "Grounding Rod Info" on 12 July 2003 at
http://tinyurl.com/hkjq
Post includes good safety tips such as hot water heater and meter
ground shunts.