In article TZmIi.5718$oc2.5176@trnddc04, "James Sweet" wrote:


The measurements on the orginal ballast are off. I may have a bad new
ballast

I am looking at the orginal ballast and another single lamp with RR BBuWG

On the later I measure HV when the lamp in inserted, but there is
no HV open, and the lamp is a perfectly working model. I'm not sure I
understand the no HV concept. Its not present on the orginal non
working model 2 lamp ballast.

I ordered another ballast, slightly different. The second ballast didn't
seem
to have enough oomph. I did read a open starting voltge almost 200 volts.
It just got loaded down with the tube even though its for a bigger tube ??

I had wonderd if a UV lamp has slightly different requirments, as I found
an old separate listing for Advance UV ballasts. Don't know.



Did you even read what I posted? There's a capacitor between the yellow
wires and either the red or blue wires to help ignite the first lamp in the
series chain, you'll measure a voltage between the other colors and the
yellows because of this, but it'll load down with a lamp connected. It
sounds to me like the ballast is behaving precisely as it should, you're
just not connecting it right. It's not designed to operate a single lamp, it
connects both lamps in series, if one is not there, the other will not
light.

Did you even read what I posted?
That sounds like good info, but I was trying to go by the orginal
installation, which was exactly as I was trying to do,. The two
blue wires had wirenuts and went noplace. The orginal ballast
had no filiment voltages present. The new ballast lit the filiments
very nice, and now after the third ballast, everything is bluish.

greg