In article dfbIi.16231$mk2.14086@trnddc07, "James Sweet" wrote:


Yellows on one side, one lamp to reds and another if present to blues on
the
other sides. 120 vac. I checked voltages except the actual drive, supposed
to be about 380 vac unloaded. I will measure that next. I had to defeat
contacts to get access. Its all in a big hood. It worked, now it still
does ot
even with new parts. I don't imagine there is a problem with the socket
since
the filiments light. Its also a UV lamp.

I wired up a strobe once. It would not work in the dark. As soon as you
gave
it enough light it would fire.

I am reading the lamp FAQ.

The measurements on the orginal ballast are off. I may have a bad new
ballast

greg


That won't work unless the ignition capacitor within the ballast is shorted,
which I've seen once, the yellows go to an isolated filament winding,
they're not part of the ballast secondary. Put the red wires on one end and
the blue wires on the other and the lamp will light. Better yet, use a
ballast designed to operate a single lamp, they're cheap.

That might have worked.
The orginal ballast was bad. The replacement just did not do the job.
I fixed the problem when I installed an instant start ballast. The guy at
Grainger suggested a lower power single unit. I had to join the reds and the
yellows, as the 600 volt starting voltage apparently does not need filiments.

greg