DIYbanter - View Single Post

On 19 Apr 2004 10:59:08 -0700, (Don) wrote:

I am wanting to have built or to build a pole barn garage about 30x30.
I have been working the ground with a power tiller and a tractor. It
is alot more level than it was but still has some low spots. Is there
a good way to ensure this is level?

Is there anything out there not too expensive that I could make or buy
that would help me get this as level as possible? (Short of buying a
200 buck transit). WOuld a laser level on a pole work?

Also, would it be good to put down gravel before poles or anything go
up? (Not sure if I can afford concrete or not yet. Looks like the
gravel first would provide some protection for the poles when they go
up if it rained on the bare dirt which would cause mud splashing up on
them.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

This is how I make a water level. Get 3/4" brass fittings like your
going to replace the ends on a hose and put them together with a new
rubber seal. Get an extra male one and drill a hole on the side next
to the bottom of a plastic 5 gal. bucket and epoxy it so the barbs are
pointing out. Get about 3' of clear hose and cut it in half then
connect to the fittings and then to the bucket after the epoxy is set.
Use only good hose between the fittings to extend it.

To set it up , elevate the bucket on something that won't move and lay
out the hose as straight as possible and hang up the end above the
bucket. Fill the bucket all the way up and look at the water. If it is
cloudy from very small air bubbles drop the end and force water
through the hose and hang it back up. Fill the bucket back up and wait
till the water is clear then drop the end as low as possible till it
has all new water in it. If the water was clear then dropping the end
and forcing water down the line will do , but always run new water
through it just from gravity to make sure the big bubbles are out.

To use it , mark the hose so that you use the same part of the hose.
For example if you use different parts of the hose you'll be changing
the level by a couple of ounces. Hold the hose up against a wall ,
stake, pole , ect. and stop the water from bouncing with your finger
on the end at the proper times. Then mark everything to where ever the
water is. Measure up or down from those marks or use a stick to
transfer while your leveling which is the PITA way.

Do not step on the hose, kink it , coil it up , leave you finger on
the end, move the bucket , or let the water evaporate. I don't like
the two person method. One chases and the other marks and you have to
trust the other person. I've had all kinds of problems that way from
co-workers dicking with ya , dropping the hose, ahhh that's close
enough while its still bouncing , forgetting to take their finger off
the end , ect... Double check the first mark when your done and do it
all at once. In the summer if you take your time bubbles will form
from the heat. Speed is your friend , no stopping. Set up all your
marking spots before you set the level up.

Wow , this is a pain to explain something so simple. I do it all the
time if anyone has a question. Works great for all kinds of things
like cutting the tops off the poles. The roof of my shop was done
that way and it only slopes about 2" in 15' by design.

I wonder if things like the bases of pyramids and tops of aqueducts
are curved like the earth or straight. Off hand I would think they
would have to have optics to get it straight. Bet they are curved.
Even line segments would be interesting. Things that make me go
hmmm... Structures should be straight and aqueducts curved. Then again
suspension bridge towers wouldn't be parallel. Anyone know off hand
what one degree would be in miles at sea level? That's one of my
favorite curves to view , at the beach.