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The Davenport's The Davenport's is offline
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Default One last question (today that is...) on buying rough hardwood


"Eigenvector" wrote in message
. ..

"dpb" wrote in message ...
Eigenvector wrote:
One other thing popped into my head while browsing the selection of
hardwoods at the yard - some of the pieces were separating or fraying in
sections. I don't know the technical term for it, but I would imagine
it is caused by uneven drying and having two halves of the wood crook in
different directions. Basically the edges of the wood are fine, its the
middle that has split apart.

So let's say you have 1 foot of that on an 8 foot board - would you
attempt to talk them out of making you pay for that 1 foot of useless
wood
Here's a pic of what I mean -
http://images.lowes.com/general/s/split.jpg


At a BORG you can try anything; who knows, you might get lucky...

At a real mill or wholesale yard, that's just the way it comes.

And, btw, since you've been asking questions on hardwood, I'll throw in
one other tidbit I've not seen mentioned but that comes up, particularly
w/ walnut and cherry and others that have such vivid contrast between
heart- and sapwood. That is, by hardwood grading rules, sapwood is _not_
considered a defect.

--


Just the way it comes....

So all the REAL woodworkers just deal with it and buy defective boards?

I guess given a choice I wouldn't purchase that particular piece, so I
would imagine it sits around quite a bit waiting for a REAL woodworker to
buy it - 'cause you know that's just the way it gets sold.


No, you would buy it anyway because (point 1) it is NOT a defect, just a
split. Which brings me to (point 2) cut the split end off and you've got a
7" long piece AND two pieces to use for checking how the stain you are using
REALLY looks on this piece of wood, you have material for making plugs, or
for loose tenons or, well, you get the idea?

It's STILL wood, just shorter.

Mike