"J T" wrote in message
...
I stopped subscribing to it a long time ago; now the only
woodworking magazine I receive is WoodenBoat. But, when I see a copy of
FWW on the rack I usually thumb thru it, and rarely buy one.

The Aug 07 issue is one I bought. They have a number of articles
I'm interested in this time, and a very interesting article about
testing glues.

There were three woods involved: white Oak, hard maple, ipe (ipe
used instead of teak, because the lumberyard owner hears many complaints
about glue failure with it). Three fits were fits, tight, snug, loose.
The joint used was a bridle joint (open morise-and-tenon) because it has
no mechanical strength, relies only on the glue.

The glues in order of averate strangth, strongest to weakest: Type
I PVA glue (Titebond III tested), slow-set epoxy (system Three), Pva
glue (Elmer's yellow carpenter glue), liquid hide glue (Old Brown Glue),
traditional hide glue (J. E. Moser's), polyurethane glue (Gorilla Glue).

Some of the results were pretty surprising, and goes way against
what a lot of people accept as fact. Definitely interesting. If you
don't subscribe, I'd suggest at least thumbing thru this issue, at
least. Hopefully, they'll put the article on their website later on.

As for me, I'll be sticking with my all time favorite, titebond II.
For now at any rate.

I'd tried a pllyurehane glue, once. Wasn't thrilled with it at
all. Even so, still surprised at ow gorilla Glue came in on the
testing. Only came out looking reasonably well on couple of the tests.



JOAT
I do things I don't know how to do, so that I might learn how to do
them.
- Picasso


For me, Titebond II as well. One gallon lasted me about 3 years, still good
to the last drop though a little thick.

Check this out on the joint torture test:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DhLfb7m9Fug