BTW - Your post mentioned use of MDF for the fence. Don't know why that
wouldn't work. However, if you build a table too, remember that the area
under the quill will get holey and beat up in time. It's a good idea to
make this area replaceable or repairable. That is why I have the lift-out
panel beneath the quill. I have replaced that patch 2 or 3 times so far.
The plywood under the hardboard looks kinda ugly but the top surface is
fine.

RonB

"RonB" wrote in message
...
As I noted in my WRECK response your best bet is to Google Image search
and then pick the features you want to use in your fence and table. That
is what I did before building this one (previously posted 2-3 years ago).

The table is made from a double layer of 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood. The
outside edge of the extendable table outriggers have a third layer. The
joint where outriggers meet the main table have 45degree support under the
main table to support the outriggers during normal use. They also form a
pretty good friction lock to keep them in place when unextended. The
table is topped with plain old hardboard, with a replacable panel in the
center.

The fence is made from maple. Extension rods on both the table and fence
are 3/8" steel rod. Standard T-Slot extrusion and T-Slot hardware finish
table and fence as shown. The auxillary table is held to the metal,
factory table with the same kind of knobs and bolts that extend through
the plywood part of the table.

As I recall, your Ryobi drill press has a crank-handle lift for the table.
That is good because addition of the bigger table will make it heaver -
shouldn't be an issue with the crank. I use a bungee-cable-pulley system
to help lift the table on my old craftsman.

RonB