Actually you want kiln dried if you want the best.

Buy the way, he should not be cutting into the sill plate. Make sure he
doesn't.


"PeterD" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 18 Jul 2007 10:09:16 -0400, "v8z" wrote:


"PeterD" wrote in message
. ..
On Tue, 17 Jul 2007 23:23:23 -0700, Dave in Denver
wrote:

I will have egress windows cut into my cement basement walls for a
major remodel, will use a standard 48" x 48" slider or casement.

Two contractors told me they simply frame the new concrete opening
with 2 inch "green pressure treated lumber" and then set the window.
There may be a bit more lumber for the header "to align with basement
ceiling" or structural needs, but other than that all there will be is
a single board between the cement and window frame.

(FYI... my city does require an engineers document specifying any
structural header needs in order for the city to give me a permit to
cut two big holds in my basement wall. So that bit will be taken care
of.)

But just a single 2" board sounds too fast and easy. Is there a
"proper" way or am I just use to doing things the hard way?

Thx
Dave-in-Denver

For the sides and bottom, I'd say a 2X? would be OK. I'm wondering how
much shrinkage a PT piece will have if it is not dried some first.

For the top, your engineers document will tell you what is really
needed. Probably a standardized header across the top.

Something to "suggest" to your contractor. For the small amount of PT
needed for the window framing, have him buy it from one of the big box
stores that store their materials indoors. The PT will have already had a
chance to dry out some which will minimize shrinkage and air infiltration
down the road....and be sure to have him use an expanding PU foam between
the PT and the concrete to seal any irregularities in the opening.


Good suggestion. I try to keep a few pieces of 2x8 PT on hand, dried
out as much as possible for stuff like this, but HD (and Lowes)
keeping their stuff inside can be very useful, especially if one's
timing is good... g