Ok--
(I'm a diy-er, not a plumber)
At the meter side, it looks like that funny coupling doodad is threaded onto
brass.
I would remove that and use a "female copper adapter", which allows the
transition from threaded pipe to sweated copper.
At the end point, it looks like a brass coupling, and I would either keep
the coupling and put a "male copper adapter", or remove the coupling and put
a female copper adapter on the pipe.
Here's how:
I would take 1-2 feet of copper pipe, sweat on the adapter, and THEN dope up
the threaded end (when cool, of course), and thread on to the existing pipe.
This way, heat won't mess with the teflon tape/pipe dope used on pipe
threads.
Then, sweat on a copper coupling on the copper tube, and continue the run.
If you need to bend the pipe slightly, you can use a "hickey" used for
electrical tubing.
Or your knee.
People disagree on what to use on pipe threads for sealing.
I've had inconsistent results with teflon tape.
Old hercules pro dope and thread is a pita, but guarownteed.
They make new high falutin and pretty pricey teflon pipe thread dopes, that
plumbing houses carry/recommend. They seem pretty good.
You gotta know how to sweat copper. Some people have a knack, others need
some practice. It's real quick, once you know how. Clean super brite w/
coarse steel wool, flux, sweat.
Not kidding about the garden hose. They make fittings for garden hose, so
you can make temporary connections until you finish the job. ie, sweat so
the joints don't leak.
When using a pipe wrench, always use two, so that you don't stress the pipe
"downstream". Breaking inaccessible joints can be a bitch.
--
------
Mr. P.V.'d (formerly Droll Troll), Yonkers, NY
Stop Corruption in Congress & Send the Ultimate Message:
Absolutely Vote, but NOT for a Democrat or a Republican.
Ending Corruption in Congress is the *Single Best Way*
to Materially Improve Your Family's Life.
The Solution is so simple--and inexpensive!
entropic3.14decay at optonline2.718 dot net; remove pi and e to reply--ie,
all d'numbuhs
"Ken" wrote in message
ups.com...
This is my start point where (I hope) to start my new copper pipe:
http://snice.net/pipe/startpoint.jpg
This is my end point.
http://snice.net/pipe/endpoint.jpg
Can someone advise me on the fittings that I'll need to connect these
points?
On Jun 18, 9:46 pm, Ken wrote:
Are you able to get to the city valve?
If you're referring to the main shutoff valve at the water meter, yes,
I have full access. From the water meter, there is a copper pipe that
runs under the sidewalk onto my property. Once it's a foot or so on
my property, there is a fitting (union?) from which point it's
galvanized steel. I'd like to start my copper at this union (rather
than the meter) if you think that's a decent plan. It would save me
having to dig under the sidewalk. I fully understand what this
fitting is. Can I sweat a threaded fitting onto my new copper pipe
and screw into this fitting?
If so, it looks pretty straightforward, as it looks like
the endpoint is a brass coupling.
I was assuming from my limited research that this was a "dielectric
union". I'm encouraged that you think it'll be a simple matter to
connect to this, though I'm trying to learn how.
There are basically two ways to go: all threaded w/ brass,
or threaded/sweat, for copper.
I don't quite understand this lingo. When you say "threaded w/brass",
do you mean that I would thread the new copper pipe and then screw it
into the brass fitting at the endpoint?
When you say "threaded/sweat, for copper", do you mean that I would
sweat a threaded fitting onto the end of my new copper pipe and then
screw that onto the union at the endpoint?
If not, you'll *still* be connecting to galvanized, and possibly not
even at
a thread. This is dicey-er.
You really lost me here; I thought that the only galvanized steel
that would be left in the equation was the few inches between my
sprinkler tee and the foundation.
Thanks very much for your help.
On Jun 18, 9:18 pm, "Proctologically Violated©®"
wrote:
Are you able to get to the city valve?
Altho it would help to have *some* experience.
And, if so, you could always improvise w/ a garden hose 'til you figger
things out.
If not, you'll *still* be connecting to galvanized, and possibly not
even at
a thread. This is dicey-er.
If at a thread, you can put on a standard adapter and proceed.
If at cut galvanized, I figger there's some kind of adapter (a shoulder
coupling is one, but probably not something you'd want to bury), or you
can
thread the cut galvanized--not so easy, but doable.
--
------
Mr. P.V.'d (formerly Droll Troll), Yonkers, NY
Stop Corruption in Congress & Send the Ultimate Message:
Absolutely Vote, but NOT for a Democrat or a Republican.
Ending Corruption in Congress is the *Single Best Way*
to Materially Improve Your Family's Life.
The Solution is so simple--and inexpensive!
entropic3.14decay at optonline2.718 dot net; remove pi and e to
reply--ie,
all d'numbuhs
"Ken" wrote in message
roups.com...
During the course of trying to tee off my main water supply pipe (to
feed a new sprinkler system), I've encountered the need to replace my
old 3/4" galvanized steel supply pipe with 1" copper pipe. I've
received quotes from three plumbers ranging from $700 to $1000, so I'm
trying to figure out whether it's the type of project that a plumbing
newbie can handle. I'm nervous about screwing it up and being without
water for several days.
I have a photo illustration of the project the project on my website
(http://snice.net/pipe/) that will give you an idea of the scale.
It's about 20" from the union with the city pipe to my copper
sprinkler tee. It runs uphill and jinks slightly, and having never
worked with copper before, I'm uncertain as to whether I'll be working
with a blowtorch to bend or joint my along.
Also with the connections, is it as easy as it looks? Just get a pipe
wrench and screw the pipes together?
Appreciate any insight.- Hide quoted text -
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