On Jun 13, 8:23 pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
I need some expert advise on how to repair rotted roof framing.
I am repairing a house that had some termite and rot problems over the year.
The house has been tented and roof has been replaced last year by the
previous owner.
Now I am repairing some areas of the fascia and underlying lumber. It's
probably easier to show a few pictures.
Here is one side where I removed the soffit ceiling to expose the soffit
framing.
http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...rd/CopyofP1010...
Before I removed the soffit I thought the damaged piece is a short section
from the exterior wall to the fascia, but turned out it goes all the way
inside so I cannot replace it. The ends are basically rotted away and had
termite damage as well. The fascia is a 2x12 that will be attached to it
perpendicularly. I guess the only way to repair this, is to attach a 2x6
like I had to one side? or should I attach another one to the other side
and "sandwich" the damaged piece? What is the best way to repair this?
Another damaged area is shown here from an angle:
http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...rd/CopyofP1010...
a side view of the same damaged area:
http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...d/P1010075.jpg
a close up with annotations:
http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...rd/CopyofP1010...
In the above image, you can see the rafter extends to the fascia (which I
already removed) and the end of the rafter is completely rotted. Again it
extends all the way to the inside of the roof and it's impossible to
replace, so my solution is to use an attached 2x4, well, I will now change
it to a 3x8 to match it exactly.
Note the rafter is attached to another fascia. This is a 2x12. There is a
metal I-beam that runs across the ceiling, the 2x12 is seated inside the I
beam so that another layer of fascia can be attached to it. See how the
termite had eaten half the wood away? I was thinking about cutting that
piece out but with the I beam in the way I cannot cut it and replace that
section, then I thought it is best to not cut it to preserve whatever
strength it has. My question is - is there a way to strengthen it? I know
since the I-beam carries the roof load this 2x12 is not truly structural,
but I will have another layer of fascia covering it, and then some parts of
it will be attached to a gutter, and some parts of it will be attached to an
overhead screen enclosure framework, so it will have to be able to handle
that.
My question is whether there is any product I can use to "fill" this hole
that will have some structural strength? Is there any kind of structural
wood filler? Anything at all that may help?
After I repair all the pieces, should I tie the 2x12 and the adjacent rafter
together using some metal straps would that make things better?
Thanks,
MC
MC-
Your situation is too complicated to diagonse & prescibe from a
distnace.
As you now know (unfortunately) the time to repair all this was when
the roof wwas off........I hope you got a bargain.
Was the condition discovered or disclosed before you bought the house
(ie did you know the existence & extent of the damage?) otherwise it
looks like a case of willful deception.
In CA this is a cause of action against the seller & maybe the realtor
but Florida may be different.
but to your question
Structural epoxy repair of wood & concrete
www.abatron.com the
stuff is great but not cheap.
I have 20 years of good results with the stuff.
buy the wood repair kit ...the kit is way cheaper than "ala carte"
sounds like you'll need the gallon kit ........~460 cubic inches of
Wood Epox
typically I have Liquid Wood leftover so maybe a quart or two of
Liquid Wood & a gallon kit of WoodEpox would suit your needs better &
be less money than the gallon wood repair kit (combo of Liquid Wood &
Wood Epox)
On my old house I've done more filling than consolidating.
When you a sister repair it is generally done with the same sized
timber, the sister has to extend onto sound timber by at least 2x or
more the length of the damaged wood,
Dry rotted wood has very little strength so you're not saving much
when you leave it
You've go the solve the water / roof / flashing issues or the problem
will just come back.
Treated wood is no substitute for good detailing.
cheers
Bob