Gunner wrote:
A gentleman set me the spindle from his Vernon horizontal mill, as the
arbor was stuck. It had not been removed for some time and nothing he
did would get it out. I started trying to remove the arbor
yesterday..normal stuff, heat, Kroil, etc etc. No go. I made a new
draw bolt less the treads, (his was broken off IN the arbor) and
tried pressing it out with my 6 ton press. Still no go.

I took it down to my buddies machine shop, and we stuck it in the 12
ton press. Still no go, even when beating on the top of the jack to
jar it free.

It took the 50 ton press to break it free, and when it let go, it
shook the entire building. The arbor had a very nice and even coating
of very thin rust on the taper. No pitting and it cleaned up very
nicely with a gray scotchbrite on the lathe.

The B&S tapers are self holding, using friction. And boy howdy..this
one sure was self holding.

Yeah, I had the same experience when I got my Bridgeport with the M head
and B&S #7 taper. Same story. I did manage to get the end mill holder
out of the spindle, but it took 2 weeks. Oil did nothing. Bashing the
drawbar did nothing. The end mill holder was wider at the outer end
than the taper, so we had something to grip it by, and the machine was
usable, as long as you could work with a 3/8" end mill. So, I made
a paur of U-shaped collars, one for the spindle nose, one for the
end mill holder, and put in threaded holes for bolts to spread the
collars. My friend and I applied force to those collars until they bent,
no movement! Finally, we applied heat to the spindle (gently) with a
propane torch, cold to the end mill holder with ice, pressure with
the collars, AND severe pounding on the drawbar with a 6 Lb hammer,
all at the same time! It finally released with a pop.

I just finished making a new draw bolt for the gentleman, and cleaning
it all up, checking the arbor and spindle between centers for runout,
and cleaning the inside taper with a B&S 9 reamer (damn thats a hard
spindle..never did touch the metal, just cleaned out the rust) Every
thing is nice and straight

Just a heads up...be sure to remove your B&S taper device occasionally
to make sure it doesnt rust in.

Anyone have any suggestions for a proper lube to use on a self holding
taper, to make sure it doesnt rust, but still holds well enough to
use? No keys or pins in the B&S tapers..
Paste wax? ATF?

Try cleaning them occasionally with LPS #1. It isn't much of a "lube"
which you don't want, especially in an unkeyed taper. But, it keeps
things from rusting very well.

I have my shop in a basement that gets pretty damp in the summer, and after
using LPS #1 fairly liberally for a couple of years, I think the place
has built up a bit of saturation with the stuff, and I don't have much
rust anymore. (You can't smell it, so there isn't much of it around,
but it may hang around in drawers of tools and such.)

Jon