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Fdmorrison
 
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Default B&S #9 taper-metalworking content

Gunner

wrt B&S mill arbor removal

I started trying to remove the arbor
yesterday..normal stuff, heat, Kroil, etc etc. No go. I made a new
draw bolt less the treads, (his was broken off IN the arbor) and
tried pressing it out with my 6 ton press. Still no go.


I have no knowledge. But, the problem with a broken drawbolt is as to what's
pointing out at you when you're trying to get the knockout on it. If it and
the knockout bar's face are not making good contact, but sliding off of each
other then it gets frustrating. A knockout bar as large as possible for the
bore (the more weight the better), perhaps with a concave face, is best.
Have the outer end of the bar threaded with a nut (or shouldered) so you can
slam it with the BFH and not send it through the spindle. Spindle front end
supported (like on an anvil or welding table that has a hole to allow the arbor
to pass through). With a rigid knockout and a righteous hammer smack you have a
possible solution before going the press route. You can tell by the feel and
sound if a hammer blow is just rattling the knockout.
Oil, of course. Heat--the outside of the spindle to make its inside diameter
expand. Then the knockout and hammer.

I don't think rust is the problem. I think it was the event that caused the
drawbar to shear.

Frank Morrison