On 6/9/07 10:23 AM, "beecrofter" wrote:

On Jun 9, 10:04 am, "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:
"beecrofter" wrote in message

contractors saw? go with a 10x50T atb+r combination blade. Don't
spend a dime over 40$

What makes you say that? I have a contractor saw with a $100 Ridge Carbide
blade and it can make a clean cut just like a cabinet saw. Even when I had
a cheap benchtop saw, I used decent blades.

There are many very good blades available. Forrest, Ridge Carbide, Infinity
are just a few. There is a new Freud combination that looks interesting
also.

20 years as a professional saw sharpener makes me say that.

You can buy a very good quality 10x50atb+r for 40$ most of the time
and unless you are cutting melamine, metal or have specific
application issues it is a good all around choice.
Most contractors saws I encounter could use a decent alignment blade
to slots, fence to blade, etc. And another after you horse it between
jobsites.


My Ridgid 3612 is called a "contractor saw" because it has exposed legs
rather than an enclosed base and motor hangs out the back. But a Forrest WW
II blade work wonderfully for me. It produces very smooth cuts with less
effort several combination blades that I have tried.

I have carefully aligned the bald to the miter slots and then aligned the
fence to the blade. I do re-check the alignment periodically but it s quite
stable.

Of course, I don't "horse" the saw around from site to site. It has been in
my workshop since the day that I bought it.

Contractor saw is not the same a a saw used by contractors.