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Peter Ashby Peter Ashby is offline
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Default Adding sliding cheeks to standard fence of Trend router table?

Mike Halmarack wrote:

On Mon, 14 May 2007 10:52:57 GMT, (Peter
Ashby) wrote:

Mike Halmarack wrote:

On Mon, 14 May 2007 08:59:46 GMT,
(Peter
Ashby) wrote:

wrote:

John Rumm wrote:
wrote:
Hi all,
The plastic fence that comes with the Trend router table may be
modifiable. Although it looks quite chunky it's probably thin
walled and hollow where I would want to drill for bolting on
sliding cheeks. Can anyone offer any experiences with modifying
one of these fences, or suggest alternatives?

Not tried modifying my one. I have a feeling it is of a plastic
encased dense foam of some description or possibly even a solid
plastic / resin since it does not crush or deform when you apply
clamping pressure to it in the way you would expect a hollow one
to.

Thanks, that's encouraging. In the hope that it is solid plastic I'll
approach it more daringly.

If you succeed please tell us. I have been eyeing up mine for just such
a modification too. The apperture is too big for easily passing small
items across the cutter using the fence.

Peter

I've been puzzling over this too. I see the main problem is in keeping
the function of the adjustable workpiece support on the outfeed part
of the fence. There is very little space for any sliding cheek
material between the cutter side of the workpiece support and the
cutter itself. Also any design that allows for cheek material in this
area, would be a design that prevented sliding cheek movement on the
outfeed side, when the workpiece support was in use, as far as I can
see.


I think that the only solution for this is to only use the sliding
cheeks when you do not need the adjustable outfeed support. Any piece
long enough to benefit from the outfeed support would not benefit much
from closing the aperture.


Pat Warner's precision router fence, which is described in an article
in Fine Woodworking magazine (No. 144) has sliding cheeks, the outfeed
one of which can be shimmed out to provide support. I suppose this
could be done much less fancily by packing bits of card behind the
material used for the Trend fence mods.


Yes, if you used long enough bolts there is no reason why that would not
be a perfectly practical solution


I have my table legs screwed to a piece of mdf held in my workmate via a
batten underneath. I am thinking of enclosing it and getting a Y-piece
so I can extract from below as well as through the fence. Anyone done
this?


Peter


I have a similar setup but rather than develop more effective
extraction I'm going to make the custom built router table that my
Trend table was originally bought for. It's just taken me a lot of
time to get around to it.


;-) I have a softwood framed bench with an Mdf/ply sandwich top and two
vices all nicely drilled for bench pups in multiple dimensions. I built
it using the Wikes workmate the router table now sits on. Part of the
reason was to have a stable, solid hand planing platform so I can use it
to build a proper solid hardwood bench. I'll do that when I get one of
those round tuits and SWMBO's ever lengthening list of things for me to
do gives me time...

Been stripping, sanding and painting the walls, ceilings, skirtings,
door frames etc of upper and lower hallways and the stairs. Finishing
touches still to do, after I break into the bath drain and try and find
this semi blockage. I also have these old floorboards part planed for a
stool that won't fall over when I stand on it (the bruise on the bottom
of my foot is gone and the scar is healing nicely). The first two SWMBO
vetoed flared legs that would have given them stability on style
grounds.

What I really need is some of these:
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-A...tilts-31814.ht
m

Maybe I can argue for them when the artex on the lounge ceiling gets
stripped....

Peter
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