Hi all,
The plastic fence that comes with the Trend router table may be
modifiable. Although it looks quite chunky it's probably thin walled
and hollow where I would want to drill for bolting on sliding cheeks.
Can anyone offer any experiences with modifying one of these fences,
or suggest alternatives?

Cheers,
Richard

wrote:
Hi all,
The plastic fence that comes with the Trend router table may be
modifiable. Although it looks quite chunky it's probably thin walled
and hollow where I would want to drill for bolting on sliding cheeks.
Can anyone offer any experiences with modifying one of these fences,
or suggest alternatives?

Not tried modifying my one. I have a feeling it is of a plastic encased
dense foam of some description or possibly even a solid plastic / resin
since it does not crush or deform when you apply clamping pressure to it
in the way you would expect a hollow one to.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

John Rumm wrote:
wrote:
Hi all,
The plastic fence that comes with the Trend router table may be
modifiable. Although it looks quite chunky it's probably thin walled
and hollow where I would want to drill for bolting on sliding cheeks.
Can anyone offer any experiences with modifying one of these fences,
or suggest alternatives?

Not tried modifying my one. I have a feeling it is of a plastic encased
dense foam of some description or possibly even a solid plastic / resin
since it does not crush or deform when you apply clamping pressure to it
in the way you would expect a hollow one to.

Thanks, that's encouraging. In the hope that it is solid plastic I'll
approach it more daringly.

Cheers,
Richard

wrote:

Thanks, that's encouraging. In the hope that it is solid plastic I'll
approach it more daringly.

You could drill a small test hole in the underside to find out.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

wrote:

John Rumm wrote:
wrote:
Hi all,
The plastic fence that comes with the Trend router table may be
modifiable. Although it looks quite chunky it's probably thin walled
and hollow where I would want to drill for bolting on sliding cheeks.
Can anyone offer any experiences with modifying one of these fences,
or suggest alternatives?

Not tried modifying my one. I have a feeling it is of a plastic encased
dense foam of some description or possibly even a solid plastic / resin
since it does not crush or deform when you apply clamping pressure to it
in the way you would expect a hollow one to.

Thanks, that's encouraging. In the hope that it is solid plastic I'll
approach it more daringly.

If you succeed please tell us. I have been eyeing up mine for just such
a modification too. The apperture is too big for easily passing small
items across the cutter using the fence.

Peter

--
Add my middle initial to email me. It has become attached to a country
www.the-brights.net

On Mon, 14 May 2007 08:59:46 GMT, (Peter
Ashby) wrote:

wrote:

John Rumm wrote:
wrote:
Hi all,
The plastic fence that comes with the Trend router table may be
modifiable. Although it looks quite chunky it's probably thin walled
and hollow where I would want to drill for bolting on sliding cheeks.
Can anyone offer any experiences with modifying one of these fences,
or suggest alternatives?

Not tried modifying my one. I have a feeling it is of a plastic encased
dense foam of some description or possibly even a solid plastic / resin
since it does not crush or deform when you apply clamping pressure to it
in the way you would expect a hollow one to.

Thanks, that's encouraging. In the hope that it is solid plastic I'll
approach it more daringly.

If you succeed please tell us. I have been eyeing up mine for just such
a modification too. The apperture is too big for easily passing small
items across the cutter using the fence.

Peter

I've been puzzling over this too. I see the main problem is in keeping
the function of the adjustable workpiece support on the outfeed part
of the fence. There is very little space for any sliding cheek
material between the cutter side of the workpiece support and the
cutter itself. Also any design that allows for cheek material in this
area, would be a design that prevented sliding cheek movement on the
outfeed side, when the workpiece support was in use, as far as I can
see.
--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

Mike Halmarack wrote:

On Mon, 14 May 2007 08:59:46 GMT, (Peter
Ashby) wrote:

wrote:

John Rumm wrote:
wrote:
Hi all,
The plastic fence that comes with the Trend router table may be
modifiable. Although it looks quite chunky it's probably thin walled
and hollow where I would want to drill for bolting on sliding cheeks.
Can anyone offer any experiences with modifying one of these fences,
or suggest alternatives?

Not tried modifying my one. I have a feeling it is of a plastic encased
dense foam of some description or possibly even a solid plastic / resin
since it does not crush or deform when you apply clamping pressure to it
in the way you would expect a hollow one to.

Thanks, that's encouraging. In the hope that it is solid plastic I'll
approach it more daringly.

If you succeed please tell us. I have been eyeing up mine for just such
a modification too. The apperture is too big for easily passing small
items across the cutter using the fence.

Peter

I've been puzzling over this too. I see the main problem is in keeping
the function of the adjustable workpiece support on the outfeed part
of the fence. There is very little space for any sliding cheek
material between the cutter side of the workpiece support and the
cutter itself. Also any design that allows for cheek material in this
area, would be a design that prevented sliding cheek movement on the
outfeed side, when the workpiece support was in use, as far as I can
see.

I think that the only solution for this is to only use the sliding
cheeks when you do not need the adjustable outfeed support. Any piece
long enough to benefit from the outfeed support would not benefit much
from closing the aperture.

I have my table legs screwed to a piece of mdf held in my workmate via a
batten underneath. I am thinking of enclosing it and getting a Y-piece
so I can extract from below as well as through the fence. Anyone done
this?

Peter
--
Add my middle initial to email me. It has become attached to a country
www.the-brights.net

On Mon, 14 May 2007 10:52:57 GMT, (Peter
Ashby) wrote:

Mike Halmarack wrote:

On Mon, 14 May 2007 08:59:46 GMT, (Peter
Ashby) wrote:

wrote:

John Rumm wrote:
wrote:
Hi all,
The plastic fence that comes with the Trend router table may be
modifiable. Although it looks quite chunky it's probably thin walled
and hollow where I would want to drill for bolting on sliding cheeks.
Can anyone offer any experiences with modifying one of these fences,
or suggest alternatives?

Not tried modifying my one. I have a feeling it is of a plastic encased
dense foam of some description or possibly even a solid plastic / resin
since it does not crush or deform when you apply clamping pressure to it
in the way you would expect a hollow one to.

Thanks, that's encouraging. In the hope that it is solid plastic I'll
approach it more daringly.

If you succeed please tell us. I have been eyeing up mine for just such
a modification too. The apperture is too big for easily passing small
items across the cutter using the fence.

Peter

I've been puzzling over this too. I see the main problem is in keeping
the function of the adjustable workpiece support on the outfeed part
of the fence. There is very little space for any sliding cheek
material between the cutter side of the workpiece support and the
cutter itself. Also any design that allows for cheek material in this
area, would be a design that prevented sliding cheek movement on the
outfeed side, when the workpiece support was in use, as far as I can
see.

I think that the only solution for this is to only use the sliding
cheeks when you do not need the adjustable outfeed support. Any piece
long enough to benefit from the outfeed support would not benefit much
from closing the aperture.

Pat Warner's precision router fence, which is described in an article
in Fine Woodworking magazine (No. 144) has sliding cheeks, the outfeed
one of which can be shimmed out to provide support. I suppose this
could be done much less fancily by packing bits of card behind the
material used for the Trend fence mods.

I saw a woodworking video recently where the man was using small
pieces of card to adjust some very basic fences on table and band
saws. The work he produced using this method was extremely precise by
my standards. He advocated that others use this very effective method
and spend the money saved by the non-purchase of expensive fences, on
having fun (or was it on buying other tools, I forget now).

I have my table legs screwed to a piece of mdf held in my workmate via a
batten underneath. I am thinking of enclosing it and getting a Y-piece
so I can extract from below as well as through the fence. Anyone done
this?

Peter

I have a similar setup but rather than develop more effective
extraction I'm going to make the custom built router table that my
Trend table was originally bought for. It's just taken me a lot of
time to get around to it.




--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

Mike Halmarack wrote:

On Mon, 14 May 2007 10:52:57 GMT, (Peter
Ashby) wrote:

Mike Halmarack wrote:

On Mon, 14 May 2007 08:59:46 GMT, (Peter
Ashby) wrote:

wrote:

John Rumm wrote:
wrote:
Hi all,
The plastic fence that comes with the Trend router table may be
modifiable. Although it looks quite chunky it's probably thin
walled and hollow where I would want to drill for bolting on
sliding cheeks. Can anyone offer any experiences with modifying
one of these fences, or suggest alternatives?

Not tried modifying my one. I have a feeling it is of a plastic
encased dense foam of some description or possibly even a solid
plastic / resin since it does not crush or deform when you apply
clamping pressure to it in the way you would expect a hollow one
to.

Thanks, that's encouraging. In the hope that it is solid plastic I'll
approach it more daringly.

If you succeed please tell us. I have been eyeing up mine for just such
a modification too. The apperture is too big for easily passing small
items across the cutter using the fence.

Peter

I've been puzzling over this too. I see the main problem is in keeping
the function of the adjustable workpiece support on the outfeed part
of the fence. There is very little space for any sliding cheek
material between the cutter side of the workpiece support and the
cutter itself. Also any design that allows for cheek material in this
area, would be a design that prevented sliding cheek movement on the
outfeed side, when the workpiece support was in use, as far as I can
see.

I think that the only solution for this is to only use the sliding
cheeks when you do not need the adjustable outfeed support. Any piece
long enough to benefit from the outfeed support would not benefit much
from closing the aperture.

Pat Warner's precision router fence, which is described in an article
in Fine Woodworking magazine (No. 144) has sliding cheeks, the outfeed
one of which can be shimmed out to provide support. I suppose this
could be done much less fancily by packing bits of card behind the
material used for the Trend fence mods.

Yes, if you used long enough bolts there is no reason why that would not
be a perfectly practical solution


I have my table legs screwed to a piece of mdf held in my workmate via a
batten underneath. I am thinking of enclosing it and getting a Y-piece
so I can extract from below as well as through the fence. Anyone done
this?

Peter

I have a similar setup but rather than develop more effective
extraction I'm going to make the custom built router table that my
Trend table was originally bought for. It's just taken me a lot of
time to get around to it.

;-) I have a softwood framed bench with an Mdf/ply sandwich top and two
vices all nicely drilled for bench pups in multiple dimensions. I built
it using the Wikes workmate the router table now sits on. Part of the
reason was to have a stable, solid hand planing platform so I can use it
to build a proper solid hardwood bench. I'll do that when I get one of
those round tuits and SWMBO's ever lengthening list of things for me to
do gives me time...

Been stripping, sanding and painting the walls, ceilings, skirtings,
door frames etc of upper and lower hallways and the stairs. Finishing
touches still to do, after I break into the bath drain and try and find
this semi blockage. I also have these old floorboards part planed for a
stool that won't fall over when I stand on it (the bruise on the bottom
of my foot is gone and the scar is healing nicely). The first two SWMBO
vetoed flared legs that would have given them stability on style
grounds.

What I really need is some of these:
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-A...tilts-31814.ht
m

Maybe I can argue for them when the artex on the lounge ceiling gets
stripped....

Peter
--
Add my middle initial to email me. It has become attached to a country
www.the-brights.net

On Mon, 14 May 2007 14:07:55 GMT, (Peter
Ashby) wrote:

Mike Halmarack wrote:

On Mon, 14 May 2007 10:52:57 GMT, (Peter
Ashby) wrote:

Mike Halmarack wrote:

On Mon, 14 May 2007 08:59:46 GMT, (Peter
Ashby) wrote:

wrote:

John Rumm wrote:
wrote:
Hi all,
The plastic fence that comes with the Trend router table may be
modifiable. Although it looks quite chunky it's probably thin
walled and hollow where I would want to drill for bolting on
sliding cheeks. Can anyone offer any experiences with modifying
one of these fences, or suggest alternatives?

Not tried modifying my one. I have a feeling it is of a plastic
encased dense foam of some description or possibly even a solid
plastic / resin since it does not crush or deform when you apply
clamping pressure to it in the way you would expect a hollow one
to.

Thanks, that's encouraging. In the hope that it is solid plastic I'll
approach it more daringly.

If you succeed please tell us. I have been eyeing up mine for just such
a modification too. The apperture is too big for easily passing small
items across the cutter using the fence.

Peter

I've been puzzling over this too. I see the main problem is in keeping
the function of the adjustable workpiece support on the outfeed part
of the fence. There is very little space for any sliding cheek
material between the cutter side of the workpiece support and the
cutter itself. Also any design that allows for cheek material in this
area, would be a design that prevented sliding cheek movement on the
outfeed side, when the workpiece support was in use, as far as I can
see.

I think that the only solution for this is to only use the sliding
cheeks when you do not need the adjustable outfeed support. Any piece
long enough to benefit from the outfeed support would not benefit much
from closing the aperture.

Pat Warner's precision router fence, which is described in an article
in Fine Woodworking magazine (No. 144) has sliding cheeks, the outfeed
one of which can be shimmed out to provide support. I suppose this
could be done much less fancily by packing bits of card behind the
material used for the Trend fence mods.

Yes, if you used long enough bolts there is no reason why that would not
be a perfectly practical solution


I have my table legs screwed to a piece of mdf held in my workmate via a
batten underneath. I am thinking of enclosing it and getting a Y-piece
so I can extract from below as well as through the fence. Anyone done
this?

Peter

I have a similar setup but rather than develop more effective
extraction I'm going to make the custom built router table that my
Trend table was originally bought for. It's just taken me a lot of
time to get around to it.

;-) I have a softwood framed bench with an Mdf/ply sandwich top and two
vices all nicely drilled for bench pups in multiple dimensions. I built
it using the Wikes workmate the router table now sits on. Part of the
reason was to have a stable, solid hand planing platform so I can use it
to build a proper solid hardwood bench. I'll do that when I get one of
those round tuits and SWMBO's ever lengthening list of things for me to
do gives me time...

Been stripping, sanding and painting the walls, ceilings, skirtings,
door frames etc of upper and lower hallways and the stairs. Finishing
touches still to do, after I break into the bath drain and try and find
this semi blockage. I also have these old floorboards part planed for a
stool that won't fall over when I stand on it (the bruise on the bottom
of my foot is gone and the scar is healing nicely). The first two SWMBO
vetoed flared legs that would have given them stability on style
grounds.

What I really need is some of these:
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-A...tilts-31814.ht
m

Maybe I can argue for them when the artex on the lounge ceiling gets
stripped....

Peter

Your lists and aspirations all put me to shame and make me go weak at
the knees. You do manage to make it all sound like positive experience
though, even the bruises.
--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

Mike Halmarack wrote:

On Mon, 14 May 2007 14:07:55 GMT, (Peter
Ashby) wrote:

Mike Halmarack wrote:

On Mon, 14 May 2007 10:52:57 GMT, (Peter
Ashby) wrote:

Mike Halmarack wrote:

On Mon, 14 May 2007 08:59:46 GMT, (Peter
Ashby) wrote:

wrote:

John Rumm wrote:
wrote:
Hi all,
The plastic fence that comes with the Trend router table may be
modifiable. Although it looks quite chunky it's probably thin
walled and hollow where I would want to drill for bolting on
sliding cheeks. Can anyone offer any experiences with modifying
one of these fences, or suggest alternatives?

Not tried modifying my one. I have a feeling it is of a plastic
encased dense foam of some description or possibly even a solid
plastic / resin since it does not crush or deform when you apply
clamping pressure to it in the way you would expect a hollow one
to.

Thanks, that's encouraging. In the hope that it is solid plastic I'll
approach it more daringly.

If you succeed please tell us. I have been eyeing up mine for just such
a modification too. The apperture is too big for easily passing small
items across the cutter using the fence.

Peter

I've been puzzling over this too. I see the main problem is in keeping
the function of the adjustable workpiece support on the outfeed part
of the fence. There is very little space for any sliding cheek
material between the cutter side of the workpiece support and the
cutter itself. Also any design that allows for cheek material in this
area, would be a design that prevented sliding cheek movement on the
outfeed side, when the workpiece support was in use, as far as I can
see.

I think that the only solution for this is to only use the sliding
cheeks when you do not need the adjustable outfeed support. Any piece
long enough to benefit from the outfeed support would not benefit much
from closing the aperture.

Pat Warner's precision router fence, which is described in an article
in Fine Woodworking magazine (No. 144) has sliding cheeks, the outfeed
one of which can be shimmed out to provide support. I suppose this
could be done much less fancily by packing bits of card behind the
material used for the Trend fence mods.

Yes, if you used long enough bolts there is no reason why that would not
be a perfectly practical solution


I have my table legs screwed to a piece of mdf held in my workmate via a
batten underneath. I am thinking of enclosing it and getting a Y-piece
so I can extract from below as well as through the fence. Anyone done
this?

Peter

I have a similar setup but rather than develop more effective
extraction I'm going to make the custom built router table that my
Trend table was originally bought for. It's just taken me a lot of
time to get around to it.

;-) I have a softwood framed bench with an Mdf/ply sandwich top and two
vices all nicely drilled for bench pups in multiple dimensions. I built
it using the Wikes workmate the router table now sits on. Part of the
reason was to have a stable, solid hand planing platform so I can use it
to build a proper solid hardwood bench. I'll do that when I get one of
those round tuits and SWMBO's ever lengthening list of things for me to
do gives me time...

Been stripping, sanding and painting the walls, ceilings, skirtings,
door frames etc of upper and lower hallways and the stairs. Finishing
touches still to do, after I break into the bath drain and try and find
this semi blockage. I also have these old floorboards part planed for a
stool that won't fall over when I stand on it (the bruise on the bottom
of my foot is gone and the scar is healing nicely). The first two SWMBO
vetoed flared legs that would have given them stability on style
grounds.

What I really need is some of these:
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-A...tilts-31814.ht
m

Maybe I can argue for them when the artex on the lounge ceiling gets
stripped....

Peter

Your lists and aspirations all put me to shame and make me go weak at
the knees. You do manage to make it all sound like positive experience
though, even the bruises.

These things are sent to teach us, in my case two things:

1. don't stand on the Mark1 and 2 stools.

2. don't leave large G-clamps lying around where you can step hard onto
the ends of the screws in bare feet while falling off the above.

In the immediate aftermath I was too concerned as to how I was going to
make it to the bathroom cabinet without dripping blood on the carpet.
The dustcloth that was down (and hiding the g-clamps) helped in that
respect.

I suspect the limping about with the foot was what caused me to pull my
popliteus muscle (right behind the knee) when putting out the recycling.
Decorating with a leg that goes stiff if I crouch or stretch has been,
interesting. But I am on top of it now.

Peter
--
Add my middle initial to email me. It has become attached to a country
www.the-brights.net

Peter Ashby wrote:

I have my table legs screwed to a piece of mdf held in my workmate via a
batten underneath.

Uncanny, that's what I did with mine ;-) (except it was ply rather than MDF)

I am thinking of enclosing it and getting a Y-piece
so I can extract from below as well as through the fence. Anyone done
this?

I have seen it done, and it can work well since a fair amount of debris
does fall under the table.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Mon, 14 May 2007 15:22:35 GMT, (Peter
Ashby) wrote:


I suspect the limping about with the foot was what caused me to pull my
popliteus muscle (right behind the knee) when putting out the recycling.
Decorating with a leg that goes stiff if I crouch or stretch has been,
interesting. But I am on top of it now.

Peter

Ouch! I can only suggest that you stay there as long as possible. The
alternative seems excruciating.
--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

John Rumm wrote:
wrote:

Thanks, that's encouraging. In the hope that it is solid plastic I'll
approach it more daringly.

You could drill a small test hole in the underside to find out.

I set out to do just that when I got home this evening but the test
hole wasn't necessary. On taking the bolts out and turning it over
there was a latticework of open box sections. So it's kind of hollow
but with a lot of strengthening walls.
I certainly think it will take a few new bolt-holes. I'd guest the
best option will be a T slot in the sliding cheeks with wing nuts on
the ends of the bolts sticking out back of the main fence.

Cheers,
Richard

Mike Halmarack wrote:

On Mon, 14 May 2007 15:22:35 GMT, (Peter
Ashby) wrote:


I suspect the limping about with the foot was what caused me to pull my
popliteus muscle (right behind the knee) when putting out the recycling.
Decorating with a leg that goes stiff if I crouch or stretch has been,
interesting. But I am on top of it now.

Peter

Ouch! I can only suggest that you stay there as long as possible. The
alternative seems excruciating.

Not as excrutiating as SWMBO coming home and saying 'You have only done
that?' and 'Do you want to go for a walk this evening?'.

Peter
--
Add my middle initial to email me. It has become attached to a country
www.the-brights.net

John Rumm wrote:

Peter Ashby wrote:

I have my table legs screwed to a piece of mdf held in my workmate via a
batten underneath.

Uncanny, that's what I did with mine ;-) (except it was ply rather than MDF)

;-) I like the height it gives, being unshort means much stuff is too
low for my back, like kitchen worktops.

I am thinking of enclosing it and getting a Y-piece
so I can extract from below as well as through the fence. Anyone done
this?

I have seen it done, and it can work well since a fair amount of debris
does fall under the table.

I was wondering if it was necessary to fully enclose the underneath for
efficient extraction or if just the back would be sufficient. How was
the one you saw done? if you remember.

Peter

--
Add my middle initial to email me. It has become attached to a country
www.the-brights.net

Peter Ashby wrote:

I have my table legs screwed to a piece of mdf held in my workmate via a
batten underneath.
Uncanny, that's what I did with mine ;-) (except it was ply rather than MDF)

;-) I like the height it gives, being unshort means much stuff is too
low for my back, like kitchen worktops.

Yup I know that feeling! (6'2" and a bit ish)

On top of the posh workmate with all its legs down seems to be a nice
working height though.

I was wondering if it was necessary to fully enclose the underneath for
efficient extraction or if just the back would be sufficient. How was
the one you saw done? if you remember.

It was fully enclosed, with possibly a small vent toward the top. That
way the dust gets caught in the airflow and collected. You probably
want the vacuum outlet near the base.

I can't remember which video it was, but I was watching some of the
examples he

http://www.eaglelakewoodworking.com/

and one showed a good internal shot of his router table with under
collection. You can see from the example videos on thing like the circle
jig that it does do a very good job collecting


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

I can't remember which video it was, but I was watching some of the
examples he

http://www.eaglelakewoodworking.com/

and one showed a good internal shot of his router table with under
collection. You can see from the example videos on thing like the circle
jig that it does do a very good job collecting

--
Cheers,

John.


Hi John,

I think it's this video (at the 5 minute 50 second mark).
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...21680103&hl=en

Enclosing the lower portion of my router table is the best thing I've
done to the table. The improved dust collection is amazing, and the
noise is reduced significantly.

You really need dust collection above and below the table, depending
on what operation you are doing.

Thanks,
John Nixon
www.EagleLakeWoodworking.com
Buffalo, NY

wrote:

I think it's this video (at the 5 minute 50 second mark).
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...21680103&hl=en

Nice idea closing in the front of the table with a translucent sheet so
that you see what is going on in there. Where is your extraction port,
actually on the base of the enclosure?

Enclosing the lower portion of my router table is the best thing I've
done to the table. The improved dust collection is amazing, and the
noise is reduced significantly.

You really need dust collection above and below the table, depending
on what operation you are doing.

Yup, I had come to that conclusion... you look at the top shroud on my
table, and think, yup that is getting most of it. Then you look under
the table and on the floor and realise it wasn't!


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

wrote:

John Rumm wrote:
wrote:

Thanks, that's encouraging. In the hope that it is solid plastic I'll
approach it more daringly.

You could drill a small test hole in the underside to find out.

I set out to do just that when I got home this evening but the test
hole wasn't necessary. On taking the bolts out and turning it over
there was a latticework of open box sections. So it's kind of hollow
but with a lot of strengthening walls.
I certainly think it will take a few new bolt-holes. I'd guest the
best option will be a T slot in the sliding cheeks with wing nuts on
the ends of the bolts sticking out back of the main fence.

I have a couple of jigs using bolt heads riding in T-slots. Bear in mind
that bolt heads are usually domed so allow for that extra height. It is
the width of the slot the bolt shaft slides in that determines the
sloppiness, all the head slot needs to do is not be so wide the head is
able to turn.

Peter
--
Add my middle initial to email me. It has become attached to a country
www.the-brights.net

Peter Ashby wrote:

wrote:

John Rumm wrote:
wrote:

Thanks, that's encouraging. In the hope that it is solid plastic I'll
approach it more daringly.

You could drill a small test hole in the underside to find out.

I set out to do just that when I got home this evening but the test
hole wasn't necessary. On taking the bolts out and turning it over
there was a latticework of open box sections. So it's kind of hollow
but with a lot of strengthening walls.
I certainly think it will take a few new bolt-holes. I'd guest the
best option will be a T slot in the sliding cheeks with wing nuts on
the ends of the bolts sticking out back of the main fence.
I have a couple of jigs using bolt heads riding in T-slots. Bear in mind
that bolt heads are usually domed so allow for that extra height.

I think I saw some drawings of bolts with cylindrical heads. These
would do the job OK but I don't know how diffucult they are to come
by.

It is
the width of the slot the bolt shaft slides in that determines the
sloppiness, all the head slot needs to do is not be so wide the head is
able to turn.

That will be sort of tricky with round headed bolts. Maybe I need to
find some square headed jobs or maybe standard hex heads will provide
enough of a flat both sides of the slot.
Thanks for the tips.

Cheers,

Richard

wrote:

It is
the width of the slot the bolt shaft slides in that determines the
sloppiness, all the head slot needs to do is not be so wide the head is
able to turn.

That will be sort of tricky with round headed bolts. Maybe I need to
find some square headed jobs or maybe standard hex heads will provide
enough of a flat both sides of the slot.
Thanks for the tips.

I was meaning that hex headed bolts are not completely flat on top. If
you measure at the edges and rout the groove based on that, you risk the
heads protruding. Not good in a fence.

Peter
--
Add my middle initial to email me. It has become attached to a country
www.the-brights.net

Peter Ashby wrote:
wrote:

It is
the width of the slot the bolt shaft slides in that determines the
sloppiness, all the head slot needs to do is not be so wide the head is
able to turn.

That will be sort of tricky with round headed bolts. Maybe I need to
find some square headed jobs or maybe standard hex heads will provide
enough of a flat both sides of the slot.
Thanks for the tips.

I was meaning that hex headed bolts are not completely flat on top. If
you measure at the edges and rout the groove based on that, you risk the
heads protruding. Not good in a fence.

Peter

Thanks Peter, I'll be sure to keep my heads down.
And hexagonal.

Cheers,
Richard

On May 14, 10:09 pm, John Rumm wrote:
wrote:
I think it's this video (at the 5 minute 50 second mark).
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...21680103&hl=en

Nice idea closing in the front of the table with a translucent sheet so
that you see what is going on in there. Where is your extraction port,
actually on the base of the enclosure?

Yup, I had come to that conclusion... you look at the top shroud on my
table, and think, yup that is getting most of it. Then you look under
the table and on the floor and realise it wasn't!

--
Cheers,

John.

Thanks John. You are correct, the dust shroud is located at the base
of the enclosure. I used a dust shroud that was designed for the
bottom of a contractor style table saw - it tapers nicely into the
pipe connector.

Here's a decent pic:
http://www.eagleLakeWoodworking.com/...s/P6130093.jpg

Best Regards,
John Nixon
www.EagleLakeWoodworking.com
Buffalo, NY