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Aardvark Aardvark is offline
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Default Installing 32" prehung entrance door

On Thu, 26 Apr 2007 14:15:10 -0400, Meat Plow wrote:



Yes I can take some. I'll post back when and where they'll be.


A picture tells a thousand words. That'll help with my overall
visualisation.

How many fixings have you used to install the doorset? Generally only 8
are required on an external door casing, and I can't see any real need
(unless you're a REAL belt and braces type of guy :-)) for a fixing in the
head of the casing, especially if there's even the slightest of gaps
between the casing head and the top of the opening.


Well there are three on each side.


I'd use more on an external hardwood casing but you'll get by with three
each side.

Those had to be built out approx 5
inches since the studs were recessed back that far.


Keerist! Could you have slipped in a 2x3 or at least blocks where you were
going to fix to or would that have interfered too much with the doorset?

And the top and the
bottom of the casing will also be anchored. There also is a small twist
from left to right so it's going to be touchy shimming to get the casing
square.


Even if it's the house that Jack built it's imperative your casing is flat
to the door so keep shimming :-)

Fortunately this is a Pella door


Just visited their site. It seems they have a window and door replacement
sale on right now........... :-)

and the casing has small
temporary spacers installed around the inside casing to help keep
everything square from the door's perspective.


Trick of the trade for fixing doorsets-
Remove door from casing. Fix the hinge side of the casing plumb, square to
the line of the wall and straight. Hang the door on the casing. Using the
swinging door as a guide, fix the latch side of the casing in such a way
that the door fits into the rebate (rabbet) on that side, so that it
touches all of the rebate. Shim as necessary then fix the latch side of
the casing. The door will then close tight every time.

I do appreciate your
help.


No probs. Glad to be of help.

I pretty much knew what had to be done from the beginning but it's
always nice to have confirmation from a 3rd party. Also it helps explain
to my GF why this is taking so long.


So now you have written proof eh? It's on the internet so of course it's
true :-)

And by the way, the original door
was horribly hard to open and close for good reason. My only fault and
not that it mattered since there wasn't a fix was that I forgot to check
to see if the wall was plumb.


Understandable. I've had countless "D'oh!" moments in the past where, like
a fool, I made the incorrect assumption that the guy who built the wall
was as conscientious as me and liked to do things right first time and
built plumb walls :-).

And the only fix there would have been to
gut the wall and rebuild it which isn't a viable option.


Far too much time away from the pub. I feel ya :-)

Out of curiosity: does the new doorset have a hardwood threshold and metal
weather strip on the threshold built in? If so you might have got away
with leaning the whole thing inwards slightly at the top without the door
binding to the floor when it's opened, as the foot of the door when closed
would be at least an inch or so above floor level..

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