mm wrote:

On Fri, 30 Mar 2007 22:49:22 -0500, Terry
wrote:

When my sister first got a computer her speeds were in the 40s.

Somewhere down the road she now only gets about 20k.

She was having trouble with one of her phones. I looked in her phone
box and the security people had put their lines on the main and the
extensions on their other pair.

Her phone problems turned out to be an inside phone. I am not sure
when her speeds slowed as it could have happened over the past 5 years
or so.

Has anyone confirmed that having a security system in the phone loop
slows dial up?

Within the next month, I'll have what you say.

I sort of doubt this is the problem****, but when I've had speed
problems, I've routed the line straight from the nid to the computer,
and from there to everywher else. That didn't really help either, but
I knew I had done what I could.

If you want to check, bypass the connection with the burglar alarm.

The best way to do this if you have a NID, a network interface device,
outside your house, is probably to get some phone wire with modular
plugs on each end, and run the wire from her modem to the NID. (You
have to unplug the house to do this) You can go through the hall and
out the window. See what kind of speeds you get.

Agreed.. So far..


If you want to do
this for an extended period, take the second jack of the modem and use
another wire to plug that in to the place the modem is plugged into
now. Then the rest of the phones in your house will work, except
probably not the burglar alarm connection. But her alarm is probably
not armed when people are home, anyhow.

Nope, that will effectively send the phone voltage back to the
customer side of the NID, which is now completely isolated because the
small jumper cord from the Telco side to the Customer side in the NID
is.

I think you meant to say run the 2nd jumper from the "phone out" of
the modem to the NID "in", the jack that was unplugged (the small
jumper inside the NID). Which will effectively make the modem the
seizure device.




If you want to keep the alarm in the circuit, for extended testing,
you'll need to reverse two pairs of two wires each. So that when the
alarm siezes the line, it will sieze the wires in the house (that go
to the computer and then to the NID) instead of the wires that go
directly to the NID, which are no longer conected to anything.

Nope.. don't do that of all the other house phones are gone.



The major reason the alarm siezes the line is so the burglar can't
interfere with the dialing (the touch-toning) by picking up the first
phone he sees and pushing extra buttons. But I don't think many
burglars bother to do that (anyone know?), and you're not likely to
get burlarized during this modem speed testing period anyhow. Plus I
have a siren.

That's true.



So the alarm will still work in every other way even if it doesn't
sieze the line, if you reverse the in and out You could do this at
the alarm control panel, or at the 2x2 telephone outlet the alarm is
plugged into that I explain below.

I know I'm not always clear, so if any of this is confusing, please
ask.


Iv 'e been an alarm tech for 16 years and your explanation *is*
confusing - not because I don't understand in-house wiring better than
the phone man, but because I had to decipher your instructions. G

The second way to bypass the alarm, only bypasses that and not the
rest of hthe house, but doesn't require there to be a NID outside.

2) My alarm, which I am installing myself, has four phone connections,
two in and two out, and is intended to use standard four-conductor
indoor phone wire, with a modular plug on the other end. The modular
plug is intended to plug into a standard phone jack (at least that is
what I'll be using) but one that is wired differently from an
extension phone. This one instead has two wires (in the same sheath)
from the line from the phone company, and two wires that go to the
rest of your house.


It's NOT a standard jack - It's an RJ-31x. It has shorting pins
inside, so when the cord gets disconnected the shorting pins allow the
phone voltage to go back out to the NID - (when it's plugged in the
panel's relay does it)



So all you have to do is, not at the burlar alarm panel but at that
2x2 inch box, either use 2 wires with alligator clips on each end, and
clip them from red to red and from green to green.

Inside the RJ-31x the colors are green/red to street, gray/brown
to house phones.

This is NOT a standard jack by any means.. If you look inside one
there are 4 more connections - they are for tampers.




(You could do this at the burglar alarm panel too. although there
might not be any stripped wire showing.)

Or you can take one of each color off, and put it on the very same
screw as the one of the same color.

(The colors won't be like this at the control panel)
\


True.. He would put blue to orange and blue/wht to orange/wht

This box should have two phone wires coming in, and the red and greeen
of one wire connected to the red and green screws of the box (by which
I mean, the screws are all the same color but they have different
color little internal wires connected to them. They may also have an
R and G embossed in the plastic.) And the red and green of the other
wire is connected to the black and yellow screws of the box. That way
all four wires go to your burglar alarm which will just pass them
through to each other normally, but will intercept the phone line when
there is an alarm and it wants to call the central station. IF this
box doesn't have two reds and two greens, post back with more details.

sigh


snip


Also post to alt.security.alarms .


Please do....

x-posted