Terry wrote:

When my sister first got a computer her speeds were in the 40s.

Somewhere down the road she now only gets about 20k.

She was having trouble with one of her phones. I looked in her phone
box and the security people had put their lines on the main and the
extensions on their other pair.

Her phone problems turned out to be an inside phone. I am not sure
when her speeds slowed as it could have happened over the past 5 years
or so.

Has anyone confirmed that having a security system in the phone loop
slows dial up?


That wiring is called "line-seizure". The reason the alarmco does it
is so the alarm panel gets exclusive use of the phone line when it
needs to communicate - the panel "seizes" the line to allow itself
unobstructed dial out to the central station. As you know - modem
communications can be interrupted if a phone extension gets picked up
during a data session.

It is possible that an alarm system "could" slow down a dial up
Internet connection if the dialer wire used - the wire from the
control to the phone Co. demark is inferior. Beyond that - there is
an RJ-31X jack installed at the panel meant to provide a disconnect of
the alarm and still keep the house phones working (may be the culprit
- but highly unlikely). The panel itself just has a DPDT relay that
knocks the house phones off when the panel needs to dial out.

I would look hard at the connection in the demark for all the house
phones - it may have become oxidized or was poorly made to begin with.
Then separate house phone one-by-one from that splice to see if the
problem disappears. Re-do the splice by freshly stripping the wires
and cover with a wire-nut.


You may also isolate the alarm dialer by 'only' hooking up the house
phone to the NID temporarily and see if clears up - then place house
phones on there 1-by-1 and see if it remains clear. If all that's
left is the alarm dialer, call the alarmco to run a new wire.

MAKE SURE - you test her alarm after fiddling with the phone wiring.
Simply have her call her central station and put the system in "test"
(by offering her code word), then arm the system and send a few
alarms.

When my sister first got a computer her speeds were in the 40s.

Somewhere down the road she now only gets about 20k.

She was having trouble with one of her phones. I looked in her phone
box and the security people had put their lines on the main and the
extensions on their other pair.

Her phone problems turned out to be an inside phone. I am not sure
when her speeds slowed as it could have happened over the past 5 years
or so.

Has anyone confirmed that having a security system in the phone loop
slows dial up?

On Fri, 30 Mar 2007 22:49:22 -0500, Terry
wrote:

When my sister first got a computer her speeds were in the 40s.

Somewhere down the road she now only gets about 20k.

She was having trouble with one of her phones. I looked in her phone
box and the security people had put their lines on the main and the
extensions on their other pair.

Her phone problems turned out to be an inside phone. I am not sure
when her speeds slowed as it could have happened over the past 5 years
or so.

Has anyone confirmed that having a security system in the phone loop
slows dial up?

Within the next month, I'll have what you say.

I sort of doubt this is the problem****, but when I've had speed
problems, I've routed the line straight from the nid to the computer,
and from there to everywher else. That didn't really help either, but
I knew I had done what I could.

If you want to check, bypass the connection with the burglar alarm.

The best way to do this if you have a NID, a network interface device,
outside your house, is probably to get some phone wire with modular
plugs on each end, and run the wire from her modem to the NID. (You
have to unplug the house to do this) You can go through the hall and
out the window. See what kind of speeds you get. If you want to do
this for an extended period, take the second jack of the modem and use
another wire to plug that in to the place the modem is plugged into
now. Then the rest of the phones in your house will work, except
probably not the burglar alarm connection. But her alarm is probably
not armed when people are home, anyhow.

If you want to keep the alarm in the circuit, for extended testing,
you'll need to reverse two pairs of two wires each. So that when the
alarm siezes the line, it will sieze the wires in the house (that go
to the computer and then to the NID) instead of the wires that go
directly to the NID, which are no longer conected to anything.

The major reason the alarm siezes the line is so the burglar can't
interfere with the dialing (the touch-toning) by picking up the first
phone he sees and pushing extra buttons. But I don't think many
burglars bother to do that (anyone know?), and you're not likely to
get burlarized during this modem speed testing period anyhow. Plus I
have a siren.

So the alarm will still work in every other way even if it doesn't
sieze the line, if you reverse the in and out You could do this at
the alarm control panel, or at the 2x2 telephone outlet the alarm is
plugged into that I explain below.

I know I'm not always clear, so if any of this is confusing, please
ask.

The second way to bypass the alarm, only bypasses that and not the
rest of hthe house, but doesn't require there to be a NID outside.

2) My alarm, which I am installing myself, has four phone connections,
two in and two out, and is intended to use standard four-conductor
indoor phone wire, with a modular plug on the other end. The modular
plug is intended to plug into a standard phone jack (at least that is
what I'll be using) but one that is wired differently from an
extension phone. This one instead has two wires (in the same sheath)
from the line from the phone company, and two wires that go to the
rest of your house.

So all you have to do is, not at the burlar alarm panel but at that
2x2 inch box, either use 2 wires with alligator clips on each end, and
clip them from red to red and from green to green.

(You could do this at the burglar alarm panel too. although there
might not be any stripped wire showing.)

Or you can take one of each color off, and put it on the very same
screw as the one of the same color.

(The colors won't be like this at the control panel)

This box should have two phone wires coming in, and the red and greeen
of one wire connected to the red and green screws of the box (by which
I mean, the screws are all the same color but they have different
color little internal wires connected to them. They may also have an
R and G embossed in the plastic.) And the red and green of the other
wire is connected to the black and yellow screws of the box. That way
all four wires go to your burglar alarm which will just pass them
through to each other normally, but will intercept the phone line when
there is an alarm and it wants to call the central station. IF this
box doesn't have two reds and two greens, post back with more details.



****Without having my burlar alarm connected to the phone, I've had a
lot of variation in connection speed. When I first got a faster CPU
etc., the speeds went up a lot, and I tried to figure out what that
had to do with it. But they went down again.

For a ahile they were down, and I thought it was because the telephone
pole broke in a storm, and my phone line, and the other 100 in the
n'hood were lying in a stream. But they lay there for almost 3 years
and in the middle of all that, the speeds went up again. When they
actually took it out of the stream, the rate didn't change. And all
the phones worked fine for conversation during the 3 years.

I've found the best thing with dialup is to read my mail and my news
while webpages are downloading.

Also, see if your isp has a download accelerator. They really work.
The company I use give one out for free.

And YouTube and the new version of Real Player work darn well, even
without high speed. Find the link, click on play, then click on
pause, and the download will continue while you eat dinner if
necessary. (Videos are pretty long) There are two indicators, one
that says how far the user has listened or watched, and another that
says how far the download has progressed. You can wait until the
download finishes, then back up if necessary** and play the thing from
the start, with no download wait time. **Sometimes I'm only one
seconn in.

I've also been able to listen live to Web radio with speeds as low as
32000. Although I think I haven't had speeds in the 20's for a long
time, and iirc it didn't work well then, but maybe it would now that I
have a 800MHz processor, still not fast as things go.

She should also read her news with a newsread, not via the web which
takes much more time, but I have a feeling she dodens't read news or
she would be asking hersself.


Also post to alt.security.alarms .

mm wrote:

On Fri, 30 Mar 2007 22:49:22 -0500, Terry
wrote:

When my sister first got a computer her speeds were in the 40s.

Somewhere down the road she now only gets about 20k.

She was having trouble with one of her phones. I looked in her phone
box and the security people had put their lines on the main and the
extensions on their other pair.

Her phone problems turned out to be an inside phone. I am not sure
when her speeds slowed as it could have happened over the past 5 years
or so.

Has anyone confirmed that having a security system in the phone loop
slows dial up?

Within the next month, I'll have what you say.

I sort of doubt this is the problem****, but when I've had speed
problems, I've routed the line straight from the nid to the computer,
and from there to everywher else. That didn't really help either, but
I knew I had done what I could.

If you want to check, bypass the connection with the burglar alarm.

The best way to do this if you have a NID, a network interface device,
outside your house, is probably to get some phone wire with modular
plugs on each end, and run the wire from her modem to the NID. (You
have to unplug the house to do this) You can go through the hall and
out the window. See what kind of speeds you get.

Agreed.. So far..


If you want to do
this for an extended period, take the second jack of the modem and use
another wire to plug that in to the place the modem is plugged into
now. Then the rest of the phones in your house will work, except
probably not the burglar alarm connection. But her alarm is probably
not armed when people are home, anyhow.

Nope, that will effectively send the phone voltage back to the
customer side of the NID, which is now completely isolated because the
small jumper cord from the Telco side to the Customer side in the NID
is.

I think you meant to say run the 2nd jumper from the "phone out" of
the modem to the NID "in", the jack that was unplugged (the small
jumper inside the NID). Which will effectively make the modem the
seizure device.




If you want to keep the alarm in the circuit, for extended testing,
you'll need to reverse two pairs of two wires each. So that when the
alarm siezes the line, it will sieze the wires in the house (that go
to the computer and then to the NID) instead of the wires that go
directly to the NID, which are no longer conected to anything.

Nope.. don't do that of all the other house phones are gone.



The major reason the alarm siezes the line is so the burglar can't
interfere with the dialing (the touch-toning) by picking up the first
phone he sees and pushing extra buttons. But I don't think many
burglars bother to do that (anyone know?), and you're not likely to
get burlarized during this modem speed testing period anyhow. Plus I
have a siren.

That's true.



So the alarm will still work in every other way even if it doesn't
sieze the line, if you reverse the in and out You could do this at
the alarm control panel, or at the 2x2 telephone outlet the alarm is
plugged into that I explain below.

I know I'm not always clear, so if any of this is confusing, please
ask.


Iv 'e been an alarm tech for 16 years and your explanation *is*
confusing - not because I don't understand in-house wiring better than
the phone man, but because I had to decipher your instructions. G

The second way to bypass the alarm, only bypasses that and not the
rest of hthe house, but doesn't require there to be a NID outside.

2) My alarm, which I am installing myself, has four phone connections,
two in and two out, and is intended to use standard four-conductor
indoor phone wire, with a modular plug on the other end. The modular
plug is intended to plug into a standard phone jack (at least that is
what I'll be using) but one that is wired differently from an
extension phone. This one instead has two wires (in the same sheath)
from the line from the phone company, and two wires that go to the
rest of your house.


It's NOT a standard jack - It's an RJ-31x. It has shorting pins
inside, so when the cord gets disconnected the shorting pins allow the
phone voltage to go back out to the NID - (when it's plugged in the
panel's relay does it)



So all you have to do is, not at the burlar alarm panel but at that
2x2 inch box, either use 2 wires with alligator clips on each end, and
clip them from red to red and from green to green.

Inside the RJ-31x the colors are green/red to street, gray/brown
to house phones.

This is NOT a standard jack by any means.. If you look inside one
there are 4 more connections - they are for tampers.




(You could do this at the burglar alarm panel too. although there
might not be any stripped wire showing.)

Or you can take one of each color off, and put it on the very same
screw as the one of the same color.

(The colors won't be like this at the control panel)
\


True.. He would put blue to orange and blue/wht to orange/wht

This box should have two phone wires coming in, and the red and greeen
of one wire connected to the red and green screws of the box (by which
I mean, the screws are all the same color but they have different
color little internal wires connected to them. They may also have an
R and G embossed in the plastic.) And the red and green of the other
wire is connected to the black and yellow screws of the box. That way
all four wires go to your burglar alarm which will just pass them
through to each other normally, but will intercept the phone line when
there is an alarm and it wants to call the central station. IF this
box doesn't have two reds and two greens, post back with more details.

sigh


snip


Also post to alt.security.alarms .


Please do....

x-posted

On Fri, 30 Mar 2007 23:54:12 -0400, mm
wrote:

And YouTube and the new version of Real Player work darn well, even
without high speed. Find the link, click on play, then click on
pause, and the download will continue while you eat dinner if
necessary.

OTOH, if you leave the house or even if you go to sleep with the
dial-up connected, the alarm won't be able to dial out if its wiring
has been reversed, and the computer is still connected to the ISP, and
someone breaks in.

When my sister first got a computer her speeds were in the 40s.

Somewhere down the road she now only gets about 20k.

No real mystery. Sounds like a dial up connection where the phone company
has used line doubling. It's legal but it takes the speed down to lower 20's
for certain. A normal alarm panel with proper phone jack terminations won't
change dial up connection speeds much.

"Milhouse Van Houten" wrote in message
...
mm wrote:

On Fri, 30 Mar 2007 22:49:22 -0500, Terry
wrote:

When my sister first got a computer her speeds were in the 40s.

Somewhere down the road she now only gets about 20k.

She was having trouble with one of her phones. I looked in her phone
box and the security people had put their lines on the main and the
extensions on their other pair.

Her phone problems turned out to be an inside phone. I am not sure
when her speeds slowed as it could have happened over the past 5 years
or so.

Has anyone confirmed that having a security system in the phone loop
slows dial up?

Within the next month, I'll have what you say.

I sort of doubt this is the problem****, but when I've had speed
problems, I've routed the line straight from the nid to the computer,
and from there to everywher else. That didn't really help either, but
I knew I had done what I could.

If you want to check, bypass the connection with the burglar alarm.

The best way to do this if you have a NID, a network interface device,
outside your house, is probably to get some phone wire with modular
plugs on each end, and run the wire from her modem to the NID. (You
have to unplug the house to do this) You can go through the hall and
out the window. See what kind of speeds you get.

Agreed.. So far..


If you want to do
this for an extended period, take the second jack of the modem and use
another wire to plug that in to the place the modem is plugged into
now. Then the rest of the phones in your house will work, except
probably not the burglar alarm connection. But her alarm is probably
not armed when people are home, anyhow.

Nope, that will effectively send the phone voltage back to the
customer side of the NID, which is now completely isolated because the
small jumper cord from the Telco side to the Customer side in the NID
is.

I think you meant to say run the 2nd jumper from the "phone out" of
the modem to the NID "in", the jack that was unplugged (the small
jumper inside the NID). Which will effectively make the modem the
seizure device.




If you want to keep the alarm in the circuit, for extended testing,
you'll need to reverse two pairs of two wires each. So that when the
alarm siezes the line, it will sieze the wires in the house (that go
to the computer and then to the NID) instead of the wires that go
directly to the NID, which are no longer conected to anything.

Nope.. don't do that of all the other house phones are gone.



The major reason the alarm siezes the line is so the burglar can't
interfere with the dialing (the touch-toning) by picking up the first
phone he sees and pushing extra buttons. But I don't think many
burglars bother to do that (anyone know?), and you're not likely to
get burlarized during this modem speed testing period anyhow. Plus I
have a siren.

That's true.



So the alarm will still work in every other way even if it doesn't
sieze the line, if you reverse the in and out You could do this at
the alarm control panel, or at the 2x2 telephone outlet the alarm is
plugged into that I explain below.

I know I'm not always clear, so if any of this is confusing, please
ask.


Iv 'e been an alarm tech for 16 years and your explanation *is*
confusing - not because I don't understand in-house wiring better than
the phone man, but because I had to decipher your instructions. G

The second way to bypass the alarm, only bypasses that and not the
rest of hthe house, but doesn't require there to be a NID outside.

2) My alarm, which I am installing myself, has four phone connections,
two in and two out, and is intended to use standard four-conductor
indoor phone wire, with a modular plug on the other end. The modular
plug is intended to plug into a standard phone jack (at least that is
what I'll be using) but one that is wired differently from an
extension phone. This one instead has two wires (in the same sheath)
from the line from the phone company, and two wires that go to the
rest of your house.


It's NOT a standard jack - It's an RJ-31x. It has shorting pins
inside, so when the cord gets disconnected the shorting pins allow the
phone voltage to go back out to the NID - (when it's plugged in the
panel's relay does it)



So all you have to do is, not at the burlar alarm panel but at that
2x2 inch box, either use 2 wires with alligator clips on each end, and
clip them from red to red and from green to green.

Inside the RJ-31x the colors are green/red to street, gray/brown
to house phones.

This is NOT a standard jack by any means.. If you look inside one
there are 4 more connections - they are for tampers.




(You could do this at the burglar alarm panel too. although there
might not be any stripped wire showing.)

Or you can take one of each color off, and put it on the very same
screw as the one of the same color.

(The colors won't be like this at the control panel)
\


True.. He would put blue to orange and blue/wht to orange/wht

This box should have two phone wires coming in, and the red and greeen
of one wire connected to the red and green screws of the box (by which
I mean, the screws are all the same color but they have different
color little internal wires connected to them. They may also have an
R and G embossed in the plastic.) And the red and green of the other
wire is connected to the black and yellow screws of the box. That way
all four wires go to your burglar alarm which will just pass them
through to each other normally, but will intercept the phone line when
there is an alarm and it wants to call the central station. IF this
box doesn't have two reds and two greens, post back with more details.

sigh


snip


Also post to alt.security.alarms .


Please do....

x-posted

On Fri, 30 Mar 2007 23:19:00 -0500, Milhouse Van Houten
wrote:

mm wrote:

On Fri, 30 Mar 2007 22:49:22 -0500, Terry
wrote:

When my sister first got a computer her speeds were in the 40s.

Somewhere down the road she now only gets about 20k.

She was having trouble with one of her phones. I looked in her phone
box and the security people had put their lines on the main and the
extensions on their other pair.

Her phone problems turned out to be an inside phone. I am not sure
when her speeds slowed as it could have happened over the past 5 years
or so.

Has anyone confirmed that having a security system in the phone loop
slows dial up?

Within the next month, I'll have what you say.

I sort of doubt this is the problem****, but when I've had speed
problems, I've routed the line straight from the nid to the computer,
and from there to everywher else. That didn't really help either, but
I knew I had done what I could.

If you want to check, bypass the connection with the burglar alarm.

The best way to do this if you have a NID, a network interface device,
outside your house, is probably to get some phone wire with modular
plugs on each end, and run the wire from her modem to the NID. (You
------------------------------------------
have to unplug the house to do this) You can go through the hall and
out the window. See what kind of speeds you get.

Agreed.. So far..


If you want to do
this for an extended period, take the second jack of the modem and use
another wire to plug that in to the place the modem is plugged into
now. Then the rest of the phones in your house will work, except
probably not the burglar alarm connection. But her alarm is probably
not armed when people are home, anyhow.

Nope, that will effectively send the phone voltage back to the
customer side of the NID, which is now completely isolated because the
small jumper cord from the Telco side to the Customer side in the NID
is.

Yes, maybe I wasn't clear. The customer side of the NID is only
connected to the house, because the small jumper cord in the nid is
disconnected from the telco side.

That wire is out, but the long wire from her modem to the NID is
plugged into the Telco side.

BTW, OP, if you don't have a NID, at least with Verizon in Maryland,
they'll install one for you for free. I guess in the long run, they
think this will save them money. IIRC, they didn't have to come into
the house to do this and I didn't have to be home.

I think you meant to say run the 2nd jumper from the "phone out" of

Not really. I can't keep track of what they call these things, so
I figured he would have to do some of the work himself.

I called it the second jack because it wasn't the one he should have
used in the first stage. I figured he knew how to connect the modem,
and I figured for the first connection he would use the same jack
which is now plugged into the wall or the surge surpressor.

the modem to the NID "in", the jack that was unplugged (the small
jumper inside the NID).

At the NID end, I said he had to unplug the house, and I figured he
would take that to mean that he should plug in the new wire to the
same place. But shouldn't that wire come from the Line In jack on
the modem?

Which will effectively make the modem the
seizure device.

Yes.

Although I must have wired mine a bit differently, since I can pick up
any of my working phones and hear the internet noise. Since I got a
56K modem years ago, doing this no longer breaks my internet
connection, although sometimes I wish it did, so I could use the
phone. I guess I allowed one Y connector between the phone line
and the modem, and the other half of the Y goes to the rest of the
house.

If you want to keep the alarm in the circuit, for extended testing,
you'll need to reverse two pairs of two wires each. So that when the
alarm siezes the line, it will sieze the wires in the house (that go
to the computer and then to the NID) instead of the wires that go
directly to the NID, which are no longer conected to anything.

Nope.. don't do that of all the other house phones are gone.

Why would that be? The wire from the burglar alarm jack goes to the
nid, but the short jumper in the nid is unplugged, so that has no
effect.

I'm assuming she's not connected to the ISP when she tries to use a
phone, so the modem hasn't siezed the line.

So all the phones in the house should work fine.

Again, I may not have been clear, but that's what I meant.

The major reason the alarm siezes the line is so the burglar can't
interfere with the dialing (the touch-toning) by picking up the first
phone he sees and pushing extra buttons. But I don't think many
burglars bother to do that (anyone know?), and you're not likely to
get burlarized during this modem speed testing period anyhow. Plus I
have a siren.

That's true.

So the alarm will still work in every other way even if it doesn't
sieze the line, if you reverse the in and out You could do this at
the alarm control panel, or at the 2x2 telephone outlet the alarm is
plugged into that I explain below.

I know I'm not always clear, so if any of this is confusing, please
ask.


Iv 'e been an alarm tech for 16 years and your explanation *is*
confusing - not because I don't understand in-house wiring better than
the phone man, but because I had to decipher your instructions. G

I'm sure. But with a post this long, which alrady took time, and the
chance the OP will go in an entirely different direction, and the
ability for him to ask questions, I don't want to spend the extra time
rewriting.

Let him spend the extra time rereading. In the long run that will be
helpful to him.

The second way to bypass the alarm, only bypasses that and not the
rest of hthe house, but doesn't require there to be a NID outside.

2) My alarm, which I am installing myself, has four phone connections,
two in and two out, and is intended to use standard four-conductor
indoor phone wire, with a modular plug on the other end. The modular
plug is intended to plug into a standard phone jack (at least that is
what I'll be using) but one that is wired differently from an
extension phone. This one instead has two wires (in the same sheath)
from the line from the phone company, and two wires that go to the
rest of your house.

It's NOT a standard jack - It's an RJ-31x. It has shorting pins
inside, so when the cord gets disconnected the shorting pins allow the
phone voltage to go back out to the NID - (when it's plugged in the
panel's relay does it)

Thanks. Didn't know about those. Is that so someone in the house
won't accidentally unplug the alarm and defeat the phones? Since I'm
the only one that lives here, that's not a risk for me. Is there
another reason?

I'll remember about these jacks if I talk to others again.

Hmmm. If it has shorting pins, does that mean all he has to do is to
unplug the phone wire from the jack and that will be the same as
bypassing the burglar alarm? That would be really easy.

So all you have to do is, not at the burlar alarm panel but at that
2x2 inch box, either use 2 wires with alligator clips on each end, and
clip them from red to red and from green to green.

Inside the RJ-31x the colors are green/red to street, gray/brown
to house phones.

This is NOT a standard jack by any means.. If you look inside one
there are 4 more connections - they are for tampers.


(You could do this at the burglar alarm panel too. although there
might not be any stripped wire showing.)

Or you can take one of each color off, and put it on the very same
screw as the one of the same color.

(The colors won't be like this at the control panel)
\


True.. He would put blue to orange and blue/wht to orange/wht

This box should have two phone wires coming in, and the red and greeen
of one wire connected to the red and green screws of the box (by which
I mean, the screws are all the same color but they have different
color little internal wires connected to them. They may also have an
R and G embossed in the plastic.) And the red and green of the other
wire is connected to the black and yellow screws of the box. That way
all four wires go to your burglar alarm which will just pass them
through to each other normally, but will intercept the phone line when
there is an alarm and it wants to call the central station. IF this
box doesn't have two reds and two greens, post back with more details.

sigh


snip


Also post to alt.security.alarms .


Please do....

x-posted

mm wrote:

It's NOT a standard jack - It's an RJ-31x. It has shorting pins
inside, so when the cord gets disconnected the shorting pins allow the
phone voltage to go back out to the NID - (when it's plugged in the
panel's relay does it)

Thanks. Didn't know about those. Is that so someone in the house
won't accidentally unplug the alarm and defeat the phones? Since I'm
the only one that lives here, that's not a risk for me. Is there
another reason?

I'll remember about these jacks if I talk to others again.

Hmmm. If it has shorting pins, does that mean all he has to do is to
unplug the phone wire from the jack and that will be the same as
bypassing the burglar alarm? That would be really easy.


If the OP want's to sort out what we have talked about, then let's
wait until he has more questions. We have gone way beyond his skill
level if he is a novice.

The RJ-31x is an FCC requirement. It is intended as a disconnect from
the alarm panel if things go awry. If the dialer locks up for
instance, the customer needs a way of defeating line seizure to get
his telephone back - so he simply unplugs the cord from the RJ-31X and
then the shorting pins will allow the telco voltage to flow back to
the NID (where the house phone wires are spliced), bypassing the
control panel's relay that usually handles it.


Control panels should be located in an area that is not easily
accessible by a burglar, in a closet for instance. The RJ-31x should
ALWAYS be mounted outside the panel (not in the can) per. FCC
requirements.. this is a security risk, yes... But nonetheless is
required.

You are right about unplugging the jack.. But "we" are betting the
burglar cannot find the jack in time to prevent the alarm
transmission. I place my panels up high too, so he would need a
ladder even if he did find the jack within the 30 second delay period
(if he kicked in a delay door) - other zones are instant..So there is
no time to find the jack.

There are other ways to circumvent the dialing, but will not be
discussed on an open forum.

There are other ways to circumvent the dialing, but will not be
discussed on an open forum.

I know one. Ask AT&T to send a tech to hook up the jack, and then don't test
it. Works every time!

"Milhouse Van Houten" wrote in message
...
mm wrote:

It's NOT a standard jack - It's an RJ-31x. It has shorting pins
inside, so when the cord gets disconnected the shorting pins allow the
phone voltage to go back out to the NID - (when it's plugged in the
panel's relay does it)

Thanks. Didn't know about those. Is that so someone in the house
won't accidentally unplug the alarm and defeat the phones? Since I'm
the only one that lives here, that's not a risk for me. Is there
another reason?

I'll remember about these jacks if I talk to others again.

Hmmm. If it has shorting pins, does that mean all he has to do is to
unplug the phone wire from the jack and that will be the same as
bypassing the burglar alarm? That would be really easy.


If the OP want's to sort out what we have talked about, then let's
wait until he has more questions. We have gone way beyond his skill
level if he is a novice.

The RJ-31x is an FCC requirement. It is intended as a disconnect from
the alarm panel if things go awry. If the dialer locks up for
instance, the customer needs a way of defeating line seizure to get
his telephone back - so he simply unplugs the cord from the RJ-31X and
then the shorting pins will allow the telco voltage to flow back to
the NID (where the house phone wires are spliced), bypassing the
control panel's relay that usually handles it.


Control panels should be located in an area that is not easily
accessible by a burglar, in a closet for instance. The RJ-31x should
ALWAYS be mounted outside the panel (not in the can) per. FCC
requirements.. this is a security risk, yes... But nonetheless is
required.

You are right about unplugging the jack.. But "we" are betting the
burglar cannot find the jack in time to prevent the alarm
transmission. I place my panels up high too, so he would need a
ladder even if he did find the jack within the 30 second delay period
(if he kicked in a delay door) - other zones are instant..So there is
no time to find the jack.

There are other ways to circumvent the dialing, but will not be
discussed on an open forum.

On Sat, 31 Mar 2007 01:04:22 -0500, Milhouse Van Houten
wrote:

mm wrote:

It's NOT a standard jack - It's an RJ-31x. It has shorting pins
inside, so when the cord gets disconnected the shorting pins allow the
phone voltage to go back out to the NID - (when it's plugged in the
panel's relay does it)

Thanks. Didn't know about those. Is that so someone in the house
won't accidentally unplug the alarm and defeat the phones? Since I'm
the only one that lives here, that's not a risk for me. Is there
another reason?

I'll remember about these jacks if I talk to others again.

Hmmm. If it has shorting pins, does that mean all he has to do is to
unplug the phone wire from the jack and that will be the same as
bypassing the burglar alarm? That would be really easy.

I meant here that that's all the OP or his sister would have to do to
test her suspicion that the alarm was causing her low internet speeds.

I wasn't even thinking about a burglar doing this.

At least in my n'hood I don't think the burglars are anywhere up to
speed on these things. I wonder how expnesive a n'hood I would have
to live in for the burglars to know this kind of stuff.


We have had 3 strings of burlaries in this townhouse n'hood in the
last 28 years, and I think 2 of the burglars were caught. Although
alarms didn't play a role. I don't think many people here had alarms
then, though a lot do now. I think all three strings were more than 20
years ago.

One guy was caught cashing a stolen check or using a stolen credit
card that came from a neighbor's house, and not too far from where we
live, fwiw.

Another guy, the police wouldn't give me details, but somehow they
figured out who he was, were outside his home in the morning, and
followed him around until he went to burgle a neighbor. They let him
break in and waited outside with reinforcements, including a dog and
iirc a helicopter. (that was a few blocks from here, if they had one.)
When he came out they arrested him. The cop wouldn't tell me how they
figured out where he lived, but now that I think about it, the obvious
answer is that he left a fingerprint earlier, even though I don't
think they fingerprint for burglaries.

The owner was annoyed that they let him break in, but I presume he got
over that and figured out it was the best thing to do.

Both of these guys ended up in jail, I was told.

The second one I think was the one who used to ring the doorbell and
if no one answered, he would go around back and break in there. In
some of the houses, that is the basement, so he broke in there and was
headed up the stairs. At the same time, the mother of one of the
owners was visiting, and it took her a while to put a robe on and head
downstairs. They both heard each other on the stairs and both ran the
other way.

The third guy wasn't caught, but he went in through the little
basement window, and everyone bought bars.

Plus the break-in at my house 24 years ago, which afaik was not part
of a string. They didn't catch him and he didn't take anything, I
guess because the very annoying, always barking, waking me up dog next
door, scared him off. This burglary was between 5 and 7 on a summer
Sunday evening. He kicked in the front door.

If the OP want's to sort out what we have talked about, then let's
wait until he has more questions. We have gone way beyond his skill
level if he is a novice.

The RJ-31x is an FCC requirement. It is intended as a disconnect from

I think I may have one after all, that came with the alarm. I'm sure
if a jack came with the alarm, it's the proper jack. I'll check
tomorrow or so.

the alarm panel if things go awry. If the dialer locks up for
instance, the customer needs a way of defeating line seizure to get
his telephone back - so he simply unplugs the cord from the RJ-31X and
then the shorting pins will allow the telco voltage to flow back to
the NID (where the house phone wires are spliced), bypassing the
control panel's relay that usually handles it.


Control panels should be located in an area that is not easily
accessible by a burglar, in a closet for instance. The RJ-31x should
ALWAYS be mounted outside the panel (not in the can) per. FCC
requirements.. this is a security risk, yes... But nonetheless is
required.

You are right about unplugging the jack.. But "we" are betting the
burglar cannot find the jack in time to prevent the alarm
transmission. I place my panels up high too, so he would need a
ladder even if he did find the jack within the 30 second delay period
(if he kicked in a delay door) - other zones are instant..So there is
no time to find the jack.

There are other ways to circumvent the dialing, but will not be
discussed on an open forum.

The more PC's you have plugged into the phone, the slower the speed ;
I imagine it's the same for anything that doesn't have a mechanical
switch to disconnect the line when it's not in use.

If you have an outdoor customer jack (that some phone companies put
out there so you can diagnose whether your phone troubles are indoor,
and your responsibility, or outdoor, and their responsibility), plug
the PC into that directly and see what speed you get.

--
Ron Hardin


On the internet, nobody knows you're a jerk.

On Mar 31, 2:30 am, Ron Hardin wrote:
The more PC's you have plugged into the phone, the slower the speed ;
I imagine it's the same for anything that doesn't have a mechanical
switch to disconnect the line when it's not in use.

If you have an outdoor customer jack (that some phone companies put
out there so you can diagnose whether your phone troubles are indoor,
and your responsibility, or outdoor, and their responsibility), plug
the PC into that directly and see what speed you get.

--
Ron Hardin


On the internet, nobody knows you're a jerk.


What? Someone is still using dial up? If I had to put up with
20-40K baud, I'd have shot myself a long time ago!

On Sat, 31 Mar 2007 07:30:38 GMT, Ron Hardin
wrote:

The more PC's you have plugged into the phone, the slower the speed ;
I imagine it's the same for anything that doesn't have a mechanical
switch to disconnect the line when it's not in use.

If you have an outdoor customer jack (that some phone companies put
out there so you can diagnose whether your phone troubles are indoor,
and your responsibility, or outdoor, and their responsibility), plug
the PC into that directly and see what speed you get.

Thanks to all the informative replies. My sister would rather just
deal with slow dial up than have me disable or tamper with the
security system. The reason I asked was just to find out if the
security system was a common reason for the dial up to be slow.

Plugging the PC directly to the box would be a very quick way to find
out.

Thanks

On 31 Mar 2007 06:07:03 -0700, wrote:

On Mar 31, 2:30 am, Ron Hardin wrote:
The more PC's you have plugged into the phone, the slower the speed ;
I imagine it's the same for anything that doesn't have a mechanical
switch to disconnect the line when it's not in use.

If you have an outdoor customer jack (that some phone companies put
out there so you can diagnose whether your phone troubles are indoor,
and your responsibility, or outdoor, and their responsibility), plug
the PC into that directly and see what speed you get.

--
Ron Hardin


On the internet, nobody knows you're a jerk.


What? Someone is still using dial up? If I had to put up with
20-40K baud, I'd have shot myself a long time ago!


You would use it and like it if it was all you had.

Where she lives I don't think they will ever get broadband.

They haven't had electricity long.

I have not experienced a reduction in dialup speed with the addition of an
alarm system. I have noticed a reduction in DSL quality. The addition of
an Excelsius alarm DSL filter at the panel eliminates this problem.


--
Bob La Londe
Fishing Arizona & The Colorado River
Fishing Forums & Contests
http://www.YumaBassMan.com



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

wrote:
What? Someone is still using dial up? If I had to put up with
20-40K baud, I'd have shot myself a long time ago!

Look at the header on this message, win95 and Netscape 2.0. I'm not
an early adopter.

The trick in surfing is
Automatically Load Images - OFF
Javascript - OFF

You don't see many ads, either.

--
Ron Hardin


On the internet, nobody knows you're a jerk.

mm wrote:

Hmmm. If it has shorting pins, does that mean all he has to do is to
unplug the phone wire from the jack and that will be the same as
bypassing the burglar alarm? That would be really easy.

I meant here that that's all the OP or his sister would have to do to
test her suspicion that the alarm was causing her low internet speeds.


Ahh.. Okay.

Yeah, unplugging the RJ cord at the panel will isolate the alarm from
the phones... But I suspect if the download speed dropped after the
alarm installation there is something up with the dialer wire, not so
much the panel. But that's a good first step that isn't hard to do.