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Nirodac Nirodac is offline
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Default DeVilbiss spray gun

" wrote in
oups.com:

On Mar 28, 10:11 pm, "Robatoy" wrote:
This gun is so clean, you can see your reflection in the aluminum.


Ray


Now get the schematic for the gun and break the gun all the way down.


Yup, found the schematic and broke the gun all the way down, even pulled
out the packing.

Take it down to the seals, O rings, and packings and return springs.
Don't worry about taking this gun apart; it is a great gun, and made
to be used hard and rebuilt. You won't hurt a thing.

Check the needle when you pull it out. If there is the smallest
amount of anything on it, it is almost a sure indicator that something
is in the barrel.


Spotless needle, not shiny but a dull luster, no scratches or nicks.
Nice snug fit in the packing. Inside of the barrel is shiney

You need to make sure you have the gun cleaning kit
around to get this done properly. BTW, in case one didn't come with
your gun, it is a tiny bottle brush, something that looks like a small
toothbrush, and probably some toothpick looking pieces of wood to
clean the pressure cap assembly.


Got that too. Used it, also used a q-tip to clean the barrel.

Still nothing? The next culprit is the pickup tube and its connection
to the gun body/barrel. Remove it from the gun and look inside the
housing. Remove any debris, looking carefully at the hole where the
fluid enters the barrel before atomizing. This is where mine gets
gunked on occasion.


Clean, no product. Can also feel slight pressure here (fluid inlet on
barrel)when pressing trigger (schematic calls this the "fluid Inlet")

Then check the pickup tube itself. Make sure it is as clean as
possible inside.


Was the primer water-based? If so, the thinners just made mud, which
you probably can't see.
Thinners and emulsion-based products make neat stringy stuff. Very
hard to get rid of.


Too true. If the above happened, then you will have have to opt for
manual removal of all debris. No solvents or cleaners will work.

But there is another thing that could raise its ugly head. Water base
or no, you may have cooked your own goose by using lacquer thinner as
your gun wash.

If you used solvent based Kilz or Bullseye, or any other shellac based
primer, you are in for a nice cleaning session. I personally haven't
had any luck with those being easily cleaned out of my guns with
lacquer thinner. On solvnet primers I have the best luck cleaning

out the gun with regular paint thinner as it is not nearly as hot, and
doesn't cook the primer.


Primer was "Crown Rust Paint" containing petroleum distillates. Thinned
with Xylene.

The lacquer thinner is so hot (high VOC) that is literally catalyzes
the shellac based primer in some cases on contact. I found this out
the hard way personally a few years ago by turning a batch of KILZ in
my gravity fed conversion HVLP into white plaster. I don't remember
the primer, but I had thinned it with the lacquer thinner and didn't
have any problems shooting it. However, after about 20 ozs of
material, it was time to clean.

It was starting to set up in the gun and I didn't really think that
much about it. But then when I hit it with the GW, it was disaster.
It literally took about 2 hours to get the gun clean. It turned to
plaster everywhere in the gun that the primer could go. Called my
paint at Coronado and he confirmed my stupidity.

If it isn't a water based problem, I think it is a problem caused by
using an incorrect cleaning solution. The good news is, you could
have your gun up and running pretty quickly, with no permanent damage
if you are a patient cleaner.

Let us know if you get it cleaned or need more info.


Cleaned it several times now, once after reading this post. Same thing
no change. Still bubbling air into the fluid pot.

The fluid path up from the pot to the fluid needle chamber in the barrel
and then out the barrel past the air cap is as clean as it can be.
It's almost like the venturi effect isn't working.

Robert

Usually I read the instructions on the can (don't tell my wife I read
instructions)and thin the fluid with whatever the manufacturer
recommends.

Thanks for the help so far
Ray