On Mar 24, 6:27 am, Speedy Jim wrote:
Roger Shoaf wrote:
"Brian V" wrote in message
...

This is going to put the flange

about 1/8" to 1/4" higher that the flooring.

Seems like I got a couple of options.

1, Add another layer of 1/4" underlayment.
2, Just add an extra bit of 1/4" under the flange so it's supported.
3, Cut out the cast, go with PVC. Obviously not a choice I'm particularly
fond of. Current flange is almost 50 years old, but looks clean as heck,
very surprised at how good it looks.

I guess my question is if I choose option 2 will the flange being higher
than the floor affect the toilet being secure? Looking at the toilet it
appears that the part that goes in to the flange is a bit recessed than

the

base which sits on the floor.

First thing I would do is look at the bottom of your toilet. Usually the
flange will fit completely within the base, and the outflow will sit inside
the flange so I don't see a problem.

Try setting the toilet base over the flange and if it sits flush to your
floor with out rocking you are good to go. All I see is that you might have
to trim a little more than usual off the threaded part of the tee bolts so
you can get the nut covers on but that is not really a problem.

I agree with Roger on this. Do not disturb the cast iron work.

You really should have at least 3/8" or so of clearance from the
top of the flange to the bottom of the bowl. That's the space the
wax will be squished into. If it's too thin, there is a much greater
chance that the seal won't last. You might also consider one of the
"rubber" seals available now instead of wax.

Jim- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

If the 'wax clearance' is limited, go to a Fernco Waxless Seal.
Actually, after replacing a toilet last summer using one, I will never
again use a wax seal.

Harry K