On Sat, 17 Mar 2007 08:52:19 -0500, wrote:


If I wet sanded wouldn't the wax also help bring back some of the
sheen?

Depends on how you wet sand. It's actually possible to sand the sheen
_up_, if you continue sanding to high enough grits.

The protection provided by wax is the slippery surface it leaves
helps protect against scratches and abrasion. The real protection
against moisture, heat and cold, chemicals (food, booze, etc...) comes
from the finish itself, with only a tiny help from the wax.

You're correct that wax can fill tiny scratches and help even a sheen,
which is why it's often used with steel or synthetic wools. Some
rubbing compounds also include wax as a rubbing lube.

Polyurethane cures s-l-o-w-l-y and stays soft for quite awhile. You
might get a better result if you plan to rub it out if you wait a bit,
maybe 4-6 weeks, before the final rubbing and/or wet sanding. Even
though it's "dry", the chemical process in varnishes continues for
some time, before the finish becomes truly cured. The pre-rub cure
time is one of the big reasons pro shops use lacquers or pre-catalyzed
finishes over poly

Somebody else already pointed out that steel wool will rust with water
base. Also remember that the fibers in the wool should go across your
rub direction, not parallel to it.

Practice panels, complete with sanding and full prep are great ways to
experiment and practice. Write your steps on the back, so you'll
remember how you reached each success or failure. Cordoning off
sections to compare different steps, like wet sanding one side and not
the other, can also be useful.