"George" writes:


"James "Cubby" Culbertson" wrote in message
...

Hiya Folks,
Well I think I got it working. I adjusted the height of the outfeed
table relative to the blades and was able to get it cutting without snipe
and without creating that taper I was getting. Thanks much for the info.
If nothing else, it was a colorful thread! What I learned: The
jointer needs to be set up to within a gnat's ass in the way of
tolerances. And, I need to buy a better blade. I too use the jointer
to remove the blade marks.

Well, as close as possible, within wood tolerances. Though I'm still
puzzled how you got the beginning of a board, as presented, narrower than
the end which followed. That's characteristic of table droop, not high
outfeed.

I can think of two possibilities:

1) the board is bowed (not straight, end-to-end), and he's holding the
board with the ends up and the middle down (as opposed to ends down and
middle up), and he's starting the cutting with pressure on the front of
the board, so the front edge is cut in the first pass. The tail of the
board is then well above the knifes when it gets there, on the first pass.
Subsequent passes keep cutting at the front, and eventually cut at the
back as the surface flattens, but the end result is a flat face with a
thin edge at the front (cut on every pass) and a thick one at the back
(only cut on last pass). Put pressure on the back first, and the opposite
occurs. You need to start with pressure in the middle, not the ends - or
even better, turn the board over so it sits on the two ends and they get
knocked off together. This is "technique". The less flat the board, the
more important that the technique be good.

2) something is a bit loose in the jointer tables. With no pressure on
them, everything seems to line up just fine - it is "properly set up". As
soon as pressure is placed on the infeed or outfeed table, however, it
droops. Thus, the droop or misalignment is there when cutting, but not
apparent when measured during setup.