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George E. Cawthon George E. Cawthon is offline
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Default Toilet Tank Leak - Maybe a cracked tank?

Pokee wrote:
Pokee wrote:
DH and a friend replaced all the parts in our two toilets today due to
slow leaks (both toilets had seals/gaskets/washers sooooo old that it
was amazing we didn't have slow leaks any sooner).

Toilet #1 is fine. Toilet #2 is leaking from the tank (in the big
gasket, screw mount area - we cannot tell for sure, even though we have
monitored it very closely). While our friend thought the leak was
coming through one of the screw holes, DH and I have think it's the big
gasket seal in the center of the toilet (that seals the hole from
toilet to bowl).
1. The new gasket seal that goes from the outside of the tank to the
bowl hole is not large or puffy enough - OR - is defective somehow
(although it looks fine).

2. The tank has a hairline crack that we cannot see. I think we've
disproved this theory due to different results with each mounting of
the tank, but - I really don't know.


Also meant to mention, we drained all of the water and dried it with a
hair dryer to inspect for cracks - we couldn't see any. We also did
the best we could to make sure the 'inside' seal was sealed as well as
it could be. It does look like it's fine.

I read somewhere else that buying an oversized gasket may fix the
problem (maybe this toilet's hole is a tad bigger or misshapened?).

I've also read that we can try silicone on the seals? Of course, it
has to be dry...

I think I just need more ideas of things to try before getting that
nifty $200 bill from the plumber...

Thanks again!
Paula


Yes to the last. You can buy a new wc for a good
amount less than $200, and it would come with
instructions on how to assemble the tank to the base.

Not saying it is not possible, but I doubt that
the leak is from the big hole gasket unless you
assembled it wrong, it doesn't fit you wc, or it
looks damaged. More likely a seep from the two
bolts that hold the tank on the base. The more
times that you undo and redo the tank the less
likely it will seal correctly. Some tanks require
that there be a washer on each side of the tank
bolt (bolt head, washer, and gasket in tank and
gasket, washer, nut outside the tank, and then
rubber gasket or sleeve(for protecting the base)
and finally a washer and a nut on the under the
lip of the base.

In any case, I would just buy new bushings (and
probably the central gasket) and see if that
works. There is very little water pressure on
these seals (and none on the center when it isn't
flushing) so the compression shouldn't need to be
high if the seals fit well. Compression may be
needed on the final nut, but is needed more to
keep the tank steady than to prevent water leaks.
Compression on the final nut may need to be higher
for a WC that isn't designed for a nut between
tank and the base.