Quote :BTW, I've never seen ANY blade (and I've used most brands) that will
leave as good an edge as sharp joiner knives or a hand plane will. Unquote"



Before having a 6" heavy jointer, I used a 10 inches, Ripping Hollow
Ground-planing blade.

This blade only works when your board is square with the blade, fence and
perfectly perpendicular to the table.

To accomplished that I used to secure the board with toggle clamps on a sled
and push it between the fence and blade.

Not the ideal solution but it did the work to build three solid wood bedroom
sets and dinner room.

Now I make use of top of the line ripping (Freud) blade, heavy jointer and
surface planer. This way I can go much faster.

FWIW


"Leon" wrote in message
et...

"Mike O." wrote in message
...
On Fri, 08 Dec 2006 14:09:37 GMT, "Leon"
wrote:

A jointer is NOT correctly used to clean up after a TS rip cut. To
maintain
uniform width you need a reference fence. If you saw does not leave a
shiny
smooth edge consider spending $100 for a premium quality blade and read a
book on tuning up your TS.

I guess we'll have to disagree here Leon.
If you have a well tuned saw and a well tuned joiner you can rip rails
and stiles for an entire kitchen, join the edges and have a quite
uniform stack of material waiting for assembly. The reference fence
is still on the table saw but a properly tuned joiner will remove
material consistently along the board's edge therefore maintaining
uniformity.

That is not an absolute. Unless you maintain "perfect" feed pressure the
edge begins going off parallel with the first pass, perhaps not enough
that you would consider unacceptable.

I have a good number of quality blades but would never
consider making face frames or doors without a joiner.

BTW, I've never seen ANY blade (and I've used most brands) that will
leave as good an edge as sharp joiner knives or a hand plane will.

The Forrest WWII on a well tuned saw will leace a surface that shines and
reflects like glass. That's what use.