I can probably help you out (or at least figure out what's going
wrong).

wrote:
All boards I plane (and I have only worked with 4S softwood pine) will
produce a flat face, but this flat face is always deeper on one end
than the other.

It's hard for me to be sure exactly what you are talking about. To me,
the "ends" of a board are the shorter width. "End grain" is on the
ends of a board. Are you saying that you are jointing a face or an
edge of a board and that you are having trouble keeping it parallel
with the opposite face/edge? Or, are you saying that the depth of the
cut across the width of the board isn't consistent?

Thus, I start with two sides something close to 90deg
and working on edge 1 starts moving the two sides closer to 80deg.

Please don't interchange the terms "sides" or "edge". It makes it very
difficult to follow what you are describing. Use the term "edge" to
describe a narrow side. Use the term "face" to describe a wide side.
If the piece being jointed is square, then they are all faces.

So, are you saying that you are having trouble jointing an edge so that
it is square to a face?

If
I try to correct the problem by on edge two I get even closer to 70deg.

Is "edge two" opposite or adjacent to "edge 1"? See, I just can't
picture what you are talking about. Use "opposite edge" or "adjacent
face".

Obviously one side of the blades/plates/something is lower/higher than
the other but I can't figure it out. My straight edges aren't as
reliable as I'd like so I tried a 1-2-3 block on the out feed with
feeler guages on the infeed to check for differences along the length.

Proper jointer alignment starts with making sure that the knives are
all at the same level as the outfeed table. It could be that this is
your problem, I don't know. Then you want to make sure that the infeed
table is parallel to the outfeed table. It could be that this is your
problem, I don't know. Finally, you want to make sure that the fence
is square with both tables. This could also be your problem.

First, I will have to understand your symptoms. Then I can direct you
through all the steps needed to check each one of the major alignments
on a jointer. You might also find it handy to view the video on this
page:

http://www.ts-aligner.com/jointer.htm

There's another video with different voice-over on this page under the
heading "Using a flat indicator tip to set jointer knives" (which is a
practice which will can lead to the problems that you are suffering).

http://www.ts-aligner.com/alignmentmyths.htm

You'll notice that I advocate the use of a dial indicator. This
eliminates all of the guess work that you are currently finding so
frustrating. It doesn't have to be a TS-Aligner Jr. Any indicator jig
that can point the dial indicator downward will work. It takes
considerable skill to subjectively discern jointer knives using a 123
block and some feeler gages. I certainly can't do it as well as I can
with a dial indicator.

Might I mention I can't get the infeed to the same level as the outfeed
so this is the only way to check for coplanar tables as well. The
feeler guage didn't seem to show any difference between the two in
terms of height but I don't feel as confident as I might if I could
compare the two on a granite surface out in space to make sure that
everything is truly level to 0.0000000001+- inches. Do you see how
nuts this is making me?

Yep. There's another way to do a relative comparison of the two tables
without going juts. The two tables don't have to be at the same level
(in fact, it's easier if they are not). It does involve the use of a
long straight edge and a dial indicator. Here's the setup (photo from
a customer):

http://www.ts-aligner.com/jointertables.jpg

The straight edge being used here is from Lee Valley:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,240,45313

I would like to think the problem rests in my technique and I've read
the book on technique. I understand snipe (not a problem with me at
this point), I get the concept of planing an edge, then a face then
surface planing opposite face then finishing edge on the joiner.

Hmmm.... Try it this way: Joint a face, then joint an adjcent edge
using the jointed face against the fence. Then use your tablesaw to
rip the opposite edge parallel. And finally use a surface planer to
make the opposite face parallel. It's not generally practical to use a
jointer to make two faces or two edges parallel. It's good for
creating a flat surface (facing) and for squaring two adjcent faces (or
a face to an edge).

I get
the hand over hand, weight transfer from outfeed to infeed idea.

I'm sure you mean "infeed to outfeed" here.

I've
read, get and tried it all and still get these boards that close in
from 90 to 0 degrees.

I just don't understand what this means. How do boards "close in from
90 to 0 degrees"? 90 degrees is square. 0 degrees is flat (no angle).

Last night I jointed 1 inch off a board, worked
until 1:08AM adjusting the blades (lost the allen wrench between the
roller/infeed, took apart the entire machine, rebuilt it, readjusted
blades), felt confident I was getting a flat face/90deg cut, tried it
this morning and same thing.

Go get yourself a low cost dial indicator and I'll help you to figure
out exactly what is wrong without any guess work or frustration.

Ed Bennett

http://www.ts-aligner.com