I use a bladeguard any time it doesn't impede an operation and I
require 350+ college student shop users to do the same. Back when I
didn't have to set an example, I hated bladeguards as much as the next
guy, but after a few years of using 'em, I get uncomfortable when it
should be there but isn't.

Of course most stock guards are worthless and are thrown out for a
reason. Aftermarket overheads are pretty good or you can build your
own or just get a new saw (a good excuse for a new tool!!). The new PM
has a riving knife as does the sawstop. I think I recently heard that
riving knifes will be required on new saws in 09? (I'll check this out
at work tomorrrow) So if your looking for new equipment, you might put
it off to see what happens with this.

We use Beismeyer overheads. The cheezy adjustment bolts are removed,
so it's an easy slide of the telescoping tubes to tweak the location of
the guard or to push it out of the way for narrow rips.

We have SawStops, so the riving knives are ALWAYS(nearly) there,
invisibly making stock go straight and preventing binding. I actually
worry that our students will get into trouble if they use saws without
riving knifes in some other setting: the riving knives almost make
things too easy.

BTW: we have not changed any sop's with the advent of sawstops, they're
just another layer of protection.

I agree that watching the blade is not necessarily sound practice. You
really cannot discern what your stock is doing if your fixating on the
blade spinning 'round. If you're ripping, it's much more important to
keep an eye on the edge of your stock against the rip fence so that you
know that it's going straight and can adjust accordingly if it isn't.
The blade is going to spin and cut, you should be concentrating on
making the stock go straight.

I've got 2 unbending, shorter-than-the-other fingers due to an
unguarded tablesaw that I got into when I was in college. I've been
preventing it from happening to other students for 12 years now. Blade
guards (and sawstops) are a no-brainer.


If you don't use a guard you're just asking for trouble.

I don't care how experienced, careful, knowledgable or invincible you
are, WHY would you leave that spinning blade out in the open when you
can put something over it.

Kevin Groenke
University of Minnesota
College of Design - FabLab



Roger Haar wrote:
Hi,

I try to use the guard/splitter/antikick back thing when I can.
There are times such as when cutting dadoes when it does not work. I
have practiced installing and removing the guard so that the process is
relatively quick. Also I try to plan my cuts to minimize switching cut
types. I do not have a guard on my cutoff sled, mostly, because I have
not figured out a good design, that would not get it the way of my
product runs of 100 identical pieces.

With that said, my biggest safety feature has been the constant
training of myself to put my full attention on the saw if the blade is
spinning. If there is a distraction or I feel even a bit dazed or
tired, the saw gets turned off immediately. No "One more cut."

Thanks
Roger Haar

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Samson wrote:
I haven't used a blade guard for years, but was reading a book
today on table saws that insisted to use them whenever possible.

Question: Do you use one? If not, why not?