What you want is either the nickle or copper cream, not powder. It
usually comes in a container similiar to that of PVC glue. One thing to
remember when using this product is it takes half as much as you think
you need. All you are doing is lightly covering the threads. If you are
particular about your fingers and skin, use gloves because it is very
difficult to remove from your skin. The particular brand that I like to
use is actually called "never seize" and comes in a grey container.
mm wrote:
On Sun, 22 Oct 2006 16:46:34 -0400, "RBM" rbm2(remove
wrote:

You should use the correct product for the application, especially for high
temperature conditions

I have some graphite powder around somewhere (well it should be in the
top left hand drawer of the work bench), but I've never heard about
copper or nickle powder.

I thought I would just use what they sell for spark plugs in the auto
parts store. It's grey and creamy, and in the case of what they
pushed on me when I bought plugs, it was in a foil bag about the size
of a sugar bag at a coffee shop. Good to use?


"mm" wrote in message
.. .
Pre. S. Is there such a thing as tempered aluminum?

So I got all the screws that I needed to out of the '69 Honda that
hasn't been ridden since 1972, and I'm wondering if there is a way to
make it easier the next time**. When I bought spark plugs last time,
they gave me anti-sieze stuff, for a dollar, that is supposed to make
the spark plugs not stick to the cylinder heads (especially maybe when
the plugs are steel and the heads are aluminum, sort of like in many
motorcycles where the screws are steel and the crankcases are
aluminum.)

Can I, should I use this anti-sieze stuff when I reassemble the
motorcycle? So it won't be stuck two years from now when I need
to do something, or 20 years from now.

Or will this allow the screws and bolts to come out when I don't want
them to?

Thanks.

**How I got it apart: They don't sell impact drivers at HD or Lowe's
but they do have 2 basic models for sale at a small number of online
sources. The easiest to buy from was JCWhitney, www.jcw.com , because
there are other things there for me to buy, like motorcycle tire
irons, tail light pulsator, rear turn signal lights (this bike never
had them)

JCW has 3 things worth buying.

1) A set of 13 or 16 bits for my old impact driver. I'd ruined 2 and
now 3 of the 4 bits that came with it.

2) An impact driver pretty much just like the one I already have,
that I also bought from JCW.

3) A bigger one, not in the printed catalog, that has a big red
rubber grip, part of which makes it more unlikely that you will hit
your hand with the hammer. It also comes with 8 bits, 2phillips, 2
slot, and both short and 2 inches long. The long ones are great. I
didn't think I would like the driver especially however, but I do.


I also bought at harbor freight a set of 4 impact driver extension
bars, 4 different lengths.

All this was still not enough for the right side, I think, and I ended
up heating the side of the case where the threads are, with a propane
torch. The Klymer manual says not to do this for 3 reasons. The only
one I remember at the moment is not to lose temper, but is there such
a thing as tempered aluminum? Anyhow, I don't think I heated
anything much more than it would be if the engine were running, and it
made it easier to get the screws out.




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