On 22 Oct 2006 15:55:28 -0700, "Rain" wrote:

mm,

Anti-seize is a wonderfull product and does work as advertised. I have
been using it for many years on many different applications and have
never had an issue with anything backing out.

I hadn't heard of such a problem. It's just that I wondered why the
stuff wasn't recommended more often, especially considering how hard
it has been to get these screws out, the right and left crankcase
covers, as well as things that are attached to the cover, the oil
filter cover, and the ignition point cover. (interestingly, the
exhaust pipe came off easily, even though it gets much hotter. I
guess that is because both the stud and the nut are steel.)

So I figured the opposite problem of not coming loose when you try to
unscrew it, is coming loose when you're not trying.

As long as you followe
the proper torque specs for what you are doing the screws, nuts and
bolts will stay where they are supposed to and you will find them much

I'll have to look again if I have torque specifications even for the
cover screws.

much easier to remove next time. I have used it on everything from twin
Cat 3508 engines, deisel generators, plumbing parts, lawn mowers and
yes, even motorcycles. Do not use grease in high tem locations as it
can make a terrible mess and you will find that once it is heated it
doesn't help at all with removal, just gets your tools messy. And also,
with heating your transmission and engine covers with a torch, be very
carefull doing this. As long as there is no discoloration, you should
be fine.

Definitely no discoloration, not while I was doing it** and not after
it cooled. **I moved the torch around and could see the heated parts.
Nothing glowed red either.

If you have more issues with other bolts and are planning on
taking the motor out, you can put it in a large black garbage bag or
wrap it in plastic and the spray every nut, bolt and screw with a good
coat of penetrating lube. They make several different brands with
several different prices. It's worth the extra money and time in the
long run. After you spray everything down, wrap it up and let it sit
for a couple days. You'll find that parts come apart much easier. Good

I really really don't want to take the engine out**, but I'll keep
this in mind if I do. I want to go back and say that I did use
penetrating oil on the screws too, starting a day in advance, but I
still needed the impact driver in most cases, and the torch in more
than half of those.

The penetrating oil didn't do any good I think, in the case of the
three 50 or 55mm screws because the threads are so far from the screw
heads.

luck, hope you get that classic back on two wheels soon.

Thanks.

mm wrote:
Pre. S. Is there such a thing as tempered aluminum?

So I got all the screws that I needed to out of the '69 Honda that
hasn't been ridden since 1972, and I'm wondering if there is a way to
make it easier the next time**. When I bought spark plugs last time,
they gave me anti-sieze stuff, for a dollar, that is supposed to make
the spark plugs not stick to the cylinder heads (especially maybe when
the plugs are steel and the heads are aluminum, sort of like in many
motorcycles where the screws are steel and the crankcases are
aluminum.)

Can I, should I use this anti-sieze stuff when I reassemble the
motorcycle? So it won't be stuck two years from now when I need
to do something, or 20 years from now.

Or will this allow the screws and bolts to come out when I don't want
them to?

Thanks.

**How I got it apart: They don't sell impact drivers at HD or Lowe's
but they do have 2 basic models for sale at a small number of online
sources. The easiest to buy from was JCWhitney, www.jcw.com , because
there are other things there for me to buy, like motorcycle tire
irons, tail light pulsator, rear turn signal lights (this bike never
had them)

JCW has 3 things worth buying.

1) A set of 13 or 16 bits for my old impact driver. I'd ruined 2 and
now 3 of the 4 bits that came with it.

2) An impact driver pretty much just like the one I already have,
that I also bought from JCW.

3) A bigger one, not in the printed catalog, that has a big red
rubber grip, part of which makes it more unlikely that you will hit
your hand with the hammer. It also comes with 8 bits, 2phillips, 2
slot, and both short and 2 inches long. The long ones are great. I
didn't think I would like the driver especially however, but I do.


I also bought at harbor freight a set of 4 impact driver extension
bars, 4 different lengths.

All this was still not enough for the right side, I think, and I ended
up heating the side of the case where the threads are, with a propane
torch. The Klymer manual says not to do this for 3 reasons. The only
one I remember at the moment is not to lose temper, but is there such
a thing as tempered aluminum? Anyhow, I don't think I heated
anything much more than it would be if the engine were running, and it
made it easier to get the screws out.


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