"Jeff Wisnia" wrote

"No, if the bulb loads are connected to the output of the
dimmer then my comments about phantom oltages are likely not
relavent. It certainly does not sound like they are working
properly if you see any voltage at all across the lamp loads
when the toggle lever is moved to full OFF."

Perhaps I mislead you earlier; let me clarify. The reading
of about 50 volts was not done with the bulbs as a load.
The house circuit was wired to the switch, and then the
leads from the voltmeter were attached to the output side of
the switch. At the time the switch was not mounted to the
housing, but rather suspended in air from the house wires.
Then the toggle lever was moved and readings noted.

We have not tested to see if the bulbs are warm after
several hours in the OFF position. That sounds like a good
test, and we have considered it, and will eventually do it.
Because of other wiring and construction going on in that
part of the house, requiring that certain circuits remain
shut down, it has not been practical to perform such a test
yet. I'll keep you posted on any new developments. If the
additional information provided in this post gives you
further insight, please share it.

Thanks, and best regards.

====================

"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
. ..
CWLee wrote:
"Jeff Wisnia" wrote

"40 or 50 volts is enough to make incandescent bulbs
glow.
Are the bulb loads connected, and if so, do they glow?"

At full ON the bulbs are very bright. As the toggle
lever
is moved toward the OFF position the bulbs diminish in
brightness. With the lever horizontal (i.e., about half
way
between full ON and full OFF) the bulbs have dimmed
sufficient that one can barely see the lighted filament
inside. Moving the lever farther toward the full OFF
position results in that barely lighted filament
appearing
to disappear. However, I wonder if, at 48-50 volts, the
filament is hot enough to be visible through the frosted
bulbs.

He also wrote:

"If the loads aren't connected I'm guessing you have a
limited knowledge of electronics and are probably
measuring
the output of those dimmers with an electronic (digital)
voltmeter which is responding to miniscule leakage
currents
that give you what's known as "phantom" voltage
readings."

True, I have a limited knowledge of electronics. The
output
was measured with a (medium priced - perhaps $40 from
Sears)
hand-held digital voltmeter, as follows: Line voltage
of
110? AC was on one side of the dimmer switch. At full
ON
the voltmeter read something like 116 or 118 volts. As
the
toggle lever on the switch was moved from full ON to
full
OFF the reading on the voltmeter dropped from 116 to 48
or
49 the first time we measured it. Second time it went
to 50
volts at full OFF. I don't understand what you mean by
"responding to miniscule leakage currents ... 'phantom'
voltage readings." Are you saying that what we observed
is
an artifact of the measurement device, and that in fact
there is no voltage flowing through the switch in the
fully
OFF position? That would be comforting in one sense
about
no safety hazard with the wiring beyond the switch, but
disturbing in the sense of never being sure whether the
voltmeter is accurate or not.

Any further elaboration/clarification you (or others)
can
provide would be appreciated.

Thanks.

========================

"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
et...

CWLee wrote:

My son recently replaced two wall on-off switches with
dimmer switches, new from Home Depot or Lowe's, for me.
They work fine and control incandescent lights. He
discovered, however, that even when completely off
about
48-50 volts still flow through the new dimmer
switches -
both of them.

We are both puzzled. We assumed that off would mean

zero

volts. If this is normal isn't it a safety hazard?

Any insight appreciated.


40 or 50 volts is enough to make incandescent bulbs
glow.

Are the bulb

loads connected, and if so, do they glow?

If the loads aren't connected I'm guessing you have a

limited knowledge

of electronics and are probably measuring the output of

those dimmers

with an electronic (digital) voltmeter which is
responding

to miniscule

leakage currents that give you what's known as "phantom"

voltage readings.

If connected bulb loads "turn off" OK, fughedit.

HTH,

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
"Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength."




No, if the bulb loads are connected to the output of the
dimmer then my
comments about phantom oltages are likely not relavent. It
certainly
does not sound like they are working properly if you see
any voltage at
all across the lamp loads when the toggle lever is moved
to full OFF.

One thing you haven't revealed is justhow you are making
your measurements.

What are you measuring the voltage with respect to?
Specifically where
are the two voltmeter leads connected when you make your
measurements?

If the wall switch plates are in place is there a
possibility that the
plates are mechanically interfering with the toggle levers
and keeping
them from moving fully to their off positions?

It seems quite unlikely that TWO new dimmers would both be
defective.

And even if the bulb filaments aren't producing any
visible light with
40-50 volts across them they certainly will produce some
heat. If you
leave the toggle levers in their OFF position for several
hours and then
feel the bulbs, are they down at room temperature or can
you feel some
sensible heat.

More info from you will likely get us to the bottom of
what's happening.

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
"What do you expect from a pig but a grunt?"