Hey Gunner,
I have a mid-efficiencey ( electronic control similar to yours)
natural gas FAG in the crawl space in the new place here. So I can't,
in my physical state, "get at it" like I could maybe 20 years back.
Anyway, with-out suggesting mine had the identical problem, I can say
that it was somewhat similar. My furnace guy said "Well, do you want
to, spend $280 or just an hour service call?". Gee, guess what I
picked?!? Anyway, he took out the flame sensor gadget, cleaned it off
(it didn't look real dirty to me by the way) and it has run OK up to
this point. So I'd try that if I were you.
One other thought because I'm not sure what you meant. A test like
this of a quick acting or short term electrical occurrence is easier
to see with an analog VOM then one of the contemporary digital types.
Take care. Good Luck.
Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.
ps.... At the 0 degree F temps here the past few days, my furnace is
running about 20 minutes per hour in the day time. On and off about 4
times per hour for about 5 minutes each time. Don't know about
night-time, and it's on a "set-back" anyway. hate to see the next gas
bill.
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On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 02:12:43 GMT, Gunner
wrote:
Ive got a problem with a water heater at work. This is a natural gas
unit used to boil water out of oil for reusing the oil
Controller is a Honeywell S89F controller. Everything checks out
normally..sorta
Unit is powered up, gas on.
35 second prepurge cycle starts
At this point, for 4 seconds the ignitor fires up, the gas solenoid is
supposed to open, and then run for a few seconds to allow the flame
sensor to stablizes (DC rectification through the flame) then run. If
no flame, its supposed to recycle another 3 times then lock out if no
burn is detected.
My problem
When the solenoid voltage for the gas valve comes on..it makes and
breaks 3-4 times, or simply comes on then quits within a second. If
the flame actually does fireup, it may trigger the solenoid on and off
click click click for the 3-4 seconds, then shuts down sometimes it
only clicks once. It may or may not go through the following 3
recycles.
Ive checked the ground, cleaned all the grounding connections, double
checked the ignitor via jumper and still I cant figure out whats
causing it to not come on and stay on. Input voltage is constant, the
24vts to the controller is constant, etc etc.
I put a DC milliamp meter in line with the flame sensor rod, but was
unable to get any reading in the second or two that the flame actually
did come on.
Do I have a bad flame sensor or a bad controller? The flame sensor
appears to be in the proper position from the burner face, and the
flame sensor lug does appear to have 110vts on it, measured to ground.
Any ideas? My gut instinct is a flaky controller, but the entire
blower unit was removed and taken to the dealer where it did work
properly, its alleged by the staff.
This is the manual for the unit
http://hbctechlit.honeywell.com/tech...0s/68-0066.pdf
Gunner
"Gun Control, the theory that a 110lb grandmother should
fist fight a 250lb 19yr old criminal"