Hi, Pete, Bill has a great suggestion here but it is rather time consuming
and might be more accurate than you need.

My suggestion would be you use a newly sharpened drill, then peck at it,
maybe .050" at a time and rotate the part 90 degrees every time.

--
Lewis.

..........................

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"Bill" wrote in message
...
Hi Pete

Ha ha The last time I was on here talking about straight holes I started
WW3. Don't want to do that again. (I apologize!)

If you think you can drill great 1/4 inch holes then why not drill 1/4
inch
pilot holes. Then turn sleeves a little larger then a press fit in the
1/4
pilot holes. Then chuck up the sleeves and drill them to the size you
want.
Then mount the drilled pilot sleeves on dead centers and turn them down to
a
proper press fit for the 1/4 inch pilot holes. When done, press the
sleeves
into the 1/4 inch pilot holes.

That should work and also give you lots of room to screw the odd one up
and
if need be give you the means of changing out any that have become worn.

A lot of work for a few holes.

Bill D

Pete & sheri wrote:

I am making a drilling/tapping block and I need to drill very straight
holes for 8 sizes of taps. I will be ok with the 1/4" and up, an maybe
even with the #10 tap. But I am looking for ideas on making the holes
for the #6 and #8 taps really straight. Any ideas? The holes will be
1" deep. I will make my prototype from mild steel, but later, I want to
make some from annealed 4140.
Actually, this tool will be used for both drilling and tapping, to
keep the tap drill straight and then to keep the tap straight. It
worked out quite well to just use the clearance drill of one size to be
the tap drill size of the next one, with a couple of minor adjustments.
So, I can cover both tap drills and clearance drills for 8 sizes (#6,

#8, #10, 1/4, 5/16. 3/8 and 1/2) with only 9 holes.

I would appreciate any ideas on making those small holes straight,
Pete Stanaitis