According to Scott Townsend :
thanks guys for the help.

The Elevation will be interesting. If I always have the 2500 gallons in it
and either draw from the bottom, or from the 2500 gallon mark, the elevation
would be 4-5 above where the pump would be at the well head.

Feet I assume? That will imply a minimum head pressure of about 2.5-3 PSI.

So I think that should be sufficient enough to get the water to the pump
from the tank.

Just keep the tank-booster pump line size large. Go 1 1/4" or even
larger. That might be overkill, but it's better than underkill, and PVC
tubing is cheap.

I like the Idea of Drawing down Low and putting in a Cut off if it gets to
below 2500. That way I'm recircing the water and not letting the bottom 2500
just sit there. Yeah I know it wont really get stagnant there, but it would
be better circulation if I drew from the bottom. I have all the sensors &
Control for that.

You'd be amazed how much a water tank can stratify. It can be
quite dramatic with hot water tanks. They're designed to do that
to a certain extent, but...

It probably would be a good idea to put an elbow or deflector on
the tank inlet to provide some "rotational" urge to the incoming
water.

The booster pump line should be a few inches off the bottom of
the tank to allow for small amounts of sediment. Filter screens
etc.

[I have no idea what you have to do to tanked water to maintain
reasonable levels of purity/prevent algae/clarity etc. In
California's heat, I assume you have to do _something_.]
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.