"dadiOH" wrote in message
news:GmLyg.5141$c11.1852@trnddc08...
buck wrote:
Thanks to all so far.... Good stuff! No, the wood won't be getting
wet. Hey Lew.... What kind of epoxy? I will be having to brush it on
in large volumes so can't be too expensive. I can get a gallon of
Titebond for less than $20. Sorry Scott..... Can't tell you.... LOL.
With good adhesives, will the bond break before the wood, or will
wood splinter first.... Doug fir in question.

Assuming the pieces being glued have reasonably mating surfaces, any of
the
TiteBond glues will work just fine. Wood will break before glue line.

About the cheapest you'll find epoxy is around $60/gal. Two very nice
things about epoxy...surfaces don't have to be perfect (better if they
aren't) and clamping isn't needed. Being viscous, epoxy bridges
imperfections well; however, after wetting out both surfaces, I like to
mix
in some Cabosil (fumed silica) so it is about the consistency of
mayonnaise
then spread on one surface before weighting or clamping. Actual clamping
isn't necessary, just some way to hold the wood in position until the
epoxy
sets up some hours later. Even masking tape is fine.

You said you didn't want to use screws/nails...is that because you don't
want metal in the wood or holes? If the former and you don't use epoxy (I
wouldn't), you can always screw them together and take out the screws
later.
If you are short of clamps another alternative is to make them by cutting
off rings from PVC pipe of the appropriate diameter then cutting a slit
with
hand/band saw in each ring...easy to make dozens of "C" clamps. Not real
strong (varies with ring width & diameter) but you can make up for that by
using lots of them.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

dadiOH..... Thanks for some good ideas......