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Bob AZ

wrote:
I'm getting ready to build myself a new shop building. for various
reasons, I'm ending up with a steel stud design. the finish will be
stucco to match the house, and I'm thinking of ways to sheath, insulate
and lath without introducing plywood into the design.

The way to go. I did a steel stud shop also. 12" thick walls. All the
insulation I could put in.

Ordered the steel precut at 40% of the wood price. All the studs are
10' long/tall. Used the same steel studs for rafters. 12" again. 18'
long so building is 20 X 20 outside. Then OSB with 1" foam and chicken
wire with stucco coat. OSB on the inside. Windows on the north side
only. 5' high so as to not lose too much of the wall. Lathe and mill
are below the windows.

The walls are 10' high. Territorial style. No overhangs. Top of the
walls are stuccoed and painted with the elastomeric roof coating. This
rolls on. It was hot when we did this. So had two helpers rolling the
coating and me cutting the fabric that is saturated with the coating.
Be smart and choose a cool time for this.

Everything was designed around the other 3 walls with shelves. Costco
shelving. Steel door. AC is split type. Outside remote unit is easily
accessed from the street. Inside fan coil is high on south wall and
really cools down the shop nicely. 78 degrees when I run it. Inside
temp never above 87 degrees. Even in the hot summer spell of 100+
degree days.

All steel was ordered to size. Wastage almost zero.

I used screws for assembly. Note they now have a gun that shoots
"nails" in. The nails are copper coated and the nails are effectively
welded in pace. Works like a nail gun. Only the nails are tough to
remove.

There is a site that goes along with this type of construction. A
google search should find it.

This whole project did require extra planning but I would do it again
in a heartbeat.

For the roof I used OSB again and elastomeric roofing. Easy to do. I
live in the desert so snow load is not a factor. Slope ½" per foot. A
drain in the two lower corners. The drains go down to ground level with
the 12" walls and exit the wall just above the ground. There is a huge
oleander hedge there so they don't show.

As erection of the steel progressed the wind would make different
sounds over the steel. As more and more steel was erected the building
got tighter and tighter. One could feel it as work went along. Then
the OSB really tightend things up. I pre-assembled the walls and
erected them with some helpers.

There are holes in the steel for wiring and other utilities. There were
no grommets available for this so I used clear viny tubing from Ace.
3/8" as I recall. I split the tubing and squeezed it in place. City
electrical inspector really liked it. Big smile on his face.

I used metal 4" electrical boxes that have a bracket on them. HD. Used
the same screws to attach them. Then plaster rings as needed to mount
the appliances (receptacles and switches). Bought a 125 Amp electrical
box that would mount between the studs. Just screw it in place. Fed
from a 60 amp breaker on the main service. Gave me lots of spaces for
extra breakers.

Could go on for a long time but I am sure you get the drift. Write if
you would like.

Bob AZ