On Sun, 16 Jul 2006 10:23:50 +0100, Ed Sirett wrote
(in article .uk):

On Sun, 16 Jul 2006 08:24:22 +0100, Andy Hall wrote:

On Sun, 16 Jul 2006 08:12:59 +0100, Ed Sirett wrote
(in article .uk):

On Sun, 16 Jul 2006 03:56:23 +0100, John Rumm wrote:

The Natural Philosopher wrote:

angle grinder with steel cutting wheel will waltz through those. Not the
tidiest cut though.

Talking of which, has anyone tried those new diamond cutting blades for
angle grinders that claim they can cut metal as well as masonry?

I wondered what the cut quality and speed is like in metal, and also how
well the blades stand up.

Yes. It transforms a cheap angle grinder into a useful tool.
The blades don't last for ever but they do last for a very long time. More
usefully they don't wear down smaller like abrasive cut-off discs, which
results in making the disc too small (in diameter) to work. Also they make
a magnitude less sparks and much less debris.

I also use a power hacksaw (Bosch £100 job) which takes a variety of
blades [1] including ones intended to cut steel. The trick is to keep the
tool firmly against the pipe no matter what, and the blade lubricated.


[1] Wood, Ally, Green Wood,



Ah. That sounds interesting. Do you have a model number, Ed?

I have a Bosch reciprocating saw but guess that isn't the same thing?

It's a PFZ 500E, probably what you have? You may break some
blades but it will be a lot quicker than using a hacksaw and neater and
cleaner than an angle grinder. Also you can use the angle grinder to
deburr the cut edge.

I have used it mostly for cutting up steel water tanks including their
steel connecting pipes. Most of the problem I have are due to awkward
positions it has to work in, cutting up stock would be easier.

Ah yes, I know. I have a smaller, earlier model made by Bosch Scintilla.
I've used this one for cutting dust extraction metal duct, but that is quite
thin. I can try it on steel tube and see what happens, I guess.