On Tue, 11 Jul 2006 08:53:43 +0100, T i m wrote
(in article ):
On Mon, 10 Jul 2006 21:48:06 +0100, Andy Hall
wrote:
Like the waste for existing hand basin in the toilet is only 1-1/4"
(and it runs down through the concrete floor then under the house
apparently) ? Would an ordinary standpipe and 'U' trap be sufficient
(with the common part shared by a tiny hand basin as well)?
A couple of ideas.
Ok,
- Run a test. This would involve cutting in a tee and a standpipe to
the
basin waste and trying it out.
With the washing machine etc I assume?
Ideally, although perhaps one could simulate it with a bucket, a hose and a
funnel?
Obviously factors with the small size of
pipe are the length and slope.
It's possible (assuming this is how they would normally do such
things) the basin waste joins fairly quickly to the waste from the
toilet under the floor so the narrow gauge run could be quite short?
God may be smiling on them. It would probably entail removing the loo to
see.
Problems that could occur would be water
squirting out of the top of the standpipe and the potential for the basin
trap to be sucked dry.
Understood
The trap issue could be addressed with a HepVO
trap,
As I have on my hand basin waste here (as my washing machine is
upstream of the basin). ;-)
but it would be difficult to address an inadequate waste pipe overall.
I wonder if you could just pour a known quantity of water (a 10l
bucket?) down the existing basin waste somehow and see how long it
takes?
That would be a start but then the trap is in the way and tends to reduce the
flow. I suppose one could measure the flow rate out of the washing machine
and then see how quickly the same volume of water takes to flow out of the
basin.
It would be rather foolish to commit to the electrics and the whole project
without doing a basic test
Agreed .. thanks ..
- Alternative. Is the toilet soil pipe straight into the floor?
To be honest I didn't look .. I will give em a ring and see if they
can describe it to me?
If so, it may be possible to fit a collar boss. Have a look at
http://www.marleyplumbinganddrainage...?product_categ
or
y=sW_Vent_Compts
http://tinyurl.com/lal8t
and product code SCB41.
Found. Ok, so this would all depend on how the soil exits etc .. good
idea though .. plenty of capacity etc ..
Yes, and also the soil pipe connection in the floor. I was fortunate that
mine was a little way below the floor and all that was necessary was to
excavate the shape for the angled piece of the boss. There could be room to
fit the whole thing above the floor, but if it's on show, a little ugly. Of
course, one way round that would be to switch the bog for a back to wall or
wall hung one and make the cistern a concealed one.
I used one in a cloakroom as part of a more convenient waste arrangement
for
a basin. Depending on the soil pipe socket in the floor, this component
can
either be fitted straight in or with a little excavation, sunk such that
the
bosses on the side are flush with the floor.
Ok ..
The bosses are 40mm which would certainly be enough to accomodate a washing
machine.
Ok ..
They have power on the opposite side of wall that would be beside the
washing machine. Could a spur be brought up (to a 13A switched socket)
to above the worktop they intend to fit over the washing machine or
would it be best left underneath (and would there be any other issues
bringing power into that sort of space (it's not a bathroom or
kitchen))? Both power rings (u/d) are off an RCD if that helps?
I would put a switchable FCU above the worktop and a socket below. This
gives a neat solution without flexes on view.
And holes / cropped corners bringing the cord through etc.
You would wire a spur from the circuit on the other side of the wall in T&E.
Then run T&E from the FCU (pick one without flex outlet hole) down the wall
behind the back of the worktop. Then fit an unswitched 13A outlet below
worktop level. No flex on show.
All the best and thanks for your input Andy ..
T i m