Thanks for the help, guys.

phil
PipeDown wrote:
"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
news
wrote:
I have a halogen torchier lamp that uses the type T bulb. The lamp
will not lite. I've already replaced the lamp but I'd like to make
this a "project." The lamp uses a rheostat type switch and I was
wondering if anyone had any ideas. I was going to use my multi tester
to check to see if juice is getting through. The bulb is new. If no
juice is getting through, should I check the switch next? Anybody know
of any circuitry inside the lamp? I haven't begun to take it apart
yet. Any help will be welcome.

Thanks in advance

phil



What do you mean by "rheostat type switch". Do you mean it's a
continuously variable solid state dimmer?

If so, as previously stated, check continuity from the cord plug prongs to
where the cord splices to the switch/lamp socket.

If it IS a continuously variable solid state dimmer and it's bad, chances
are you'd not easily find an economical replacement. I'd consider
replacing it with a simple on-off switch if you want to keep that lamp for
occassional use.

HTH,

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
"Life is like a sewer -- what you get out of it depends on what you put
into it."

Dimmers have been known to be burned out when a bulb burns out. The instant
the filament on the bulb burns, there is a spike in voltage (or was that
current) you might see as that last bright flash as it blows out. This
spike can and does damage the SCR (transistor looking 3 pin device in the
dimmer control) if its current rating is borderline (as it may be in cheaper
switches). Better dimmers have a device rated for a much higher inrush
current but it cost a tiny bit more.