Josh wrote:

8 to 1 !!!??? Are you out of your mind? Most off-the-shelf poly
doesn't have to be thinned at all; you CAN thin it if you want, but 8:1
seems pretty crazy. I sometimes thin as much as 2:1 to get better
flow-out when spraying, but I see little advantage to going any further
than that. A blanket statement like poly has to be thinned 8:1 is
misleading to say the least.

8 parts poly to one part thinners for brush application, you get no
bubbles or brush marks. I've been in the refinishing/restoration
business since the 1960's, if works fine.

Minwax wood stain (and most other pigment stains) uses a varnish binder
and can be built up just like any other finish. For all intents and
purposes, it's basically paint with a very low solids content. You
could paint it on thick like poly and let it build on the surface if
you want. The reason for wiping off all of the excess is that, like
paint, the solids are opaque. Building a thick finish will obscure the
grain - usually not desirable when staining wood. However, there's no
reason other than asthetics and curing time to wipe all of the excess
stain off. Certainly it should not have the impact described in the
OP. This might have been what you were saying with the "or let it dry
24 hours" addendum.

All pigmented stains are meant to be applied and the excess wiped off,
the stain will not dry properly within the dry time on the can if you
lather it on and leave it sitting on the surface. The result is a soft
finish that does not adhere well and is prone to separating from the
surface. If I had a dollar for every muddy refinishing job I've seen in
the last 40 years applied as you describe I'd be a very wealthy man.
Btw. quit top posting if you want any further response.

Mike Wilcox